Luberon, France

Capelongue

Price per night from$321.78

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 60 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR309.09), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

Style

Campagne for peace

Setting

Bonnie Bonnieux

Amid the mistral-ruffled cypress avenues, olive groves and fruitful vines of the verdant Luberon national park, you’ll find Capelongue Hotel, a country estate with more rustic ​​Provençal charm packed into its leafy borders than a basket laden with sprays of flowers. This bastion of la belle vie is orbited by the region’s beauty-queen villages – hilltop eyries with castles of note, cobbled streets and top-tier gastronomy – and wilderness where adventurers can climb mountains, kayak along La Sorgue and, um, ride a donkey. But, we suggest slowing the pace for gentle afternoons of pastis, pétanque and repeat; sketching the scenery till the stars come out; or chasing fantastical takes on regional cooking with chilled glasses of wine. 

Capelongue is currently undergoing a makeover, so some of the information on this page may change – all will soon be revealed.

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Facilities

Photos Capelongue facilities

Need to know

Rooms

37, including 19 suites.

Check–Out

11am, but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 4pm.

Prices

Double rooms from £288.48 (€340), including tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €2.53 per person per night on check-out.

More details

Rates usually include breakfast, a glorious farm-to-table spread of meats and cheeses, eggs, smoked salmon, fruit salad, crêpes and more. In June and July, two-, three- or five-night minimum stays apply on some weekend dates.

Also

There are two bedrooms best suited to guests with mobility issues.

Hotel closed

The hotel closes annually for some of the winter season; this year it will open from 18 May 2022 till 1 January 2023.

At the hotel

Spa with a hammam and whirlpool tub, extensive grounds, vegetable and herb garden, orchard, chicken coop, pétanque alley, badminton court, free WiFi. In rooms: flatscreen TV, Bluetooth speaker, tablet, minibar, Nespresso coffee machine, kettle and teas, free WiFi and Diptyque bath products. Some rooms and suites have a terrace or balcony.

Our favourite rooms

Perhaps it’s the birds’ synonymousness with peace, love and devotion that makes converted dovecotes feel so romantic. Standing away from the main residence amid clouds of lavender and neat cypress trees, Le Pigeonnier (French for ‘the dovecote’, in case you’re worried you’ll get an aviary downgrade) is no exception. Spread over three storeys, it has a sun-drenched reading room at the top, a bedroom with a round bed and a bath tub you could comfortably share. But, the whole hotel is a ​​Provençal charm offensive, with beams, rugged stone walls, antiques and that je ne sais quoi rustic subtlety the French are so very good at – and views are democratically divine. And, there are larger suites especially for groups and families, too.

Poolside

No mere spot for splashing about, the hotel’s free-style pool is the definition of ‘location, location, location’. It’s set amid bursts of lavender bushes, sentry cypress, and spreading olive and almond trees, and it has on-high views of beautiful Bonnieux and the lush Luberon beyond. Quite the spectacle with your breaststroke. A section of it is shallow for kids to safely play in (although there’s no guard on duty), and staff will bring you snacks and drinks.

Spa

As you nap on a sunlounger underneath an almond tree, breathing in the soothing scent of the lavender bushes, your only concern where your next glass of wine is coming from, you might think: how could this possibly be any more relaxing? Well, hold on to your floppy straw hat, because it’s about to get a whole lot milder in the spa. This equally perfumed sanctuary has a hammam and whirlpool tub to soak in, and indulgent Snö and Ingrane treatments (scrubs, massages, facials).

Packing tips

Bring some locally relevant reading material by the region’s former residents. Say, the poems of Daudet and Mistral, some Camus novels, Peter Mayle’s seminal A Year in Provence book that shone a light on Bonnieux and the surrounding villages, or risqué poolside reading by the Marquis de Sade who lived in nearby Lacoste.

Also

Lean into the Le Déjeuner sur l'herbe fantasy (clothes probably not optional, we’re afraid) and ask the chef to fill a wicker hamper with a rustic picnic.

Pet‐friendly

Furry friends can stay for €25 each, a night. See more pet-friendly hotels in Luberon.

Children

Provence is magical for families, and les jeunes are welcome here. There are family suites, babysitting on request (from €20 an hour) and even Michelin dining for minis.

Best for

This stay is sleepy enough to bring very small children to juniors, but there's enough action to keep kids engaged.

Recommended rooms

The split-level Family Suite sleeps two adults and two under-12s, but for a little more privacy and space choose the Two-Bed Suite.

Activities

Onsite, they’ll likely gravitate towards the pool, cycle through the gardens and play badminton and pétanque. The Luberon is a massive playground, although Mont Ventoux’s pinnacle might be a hike too far. Otherwise, kayak along the Sorgue, try ‘accrobranching’ (a mix of zip-lines and walkways), and tour the Disney-esque castles.

Swimming pool

The hotel pool has a shallow section for little ones to splash about in, but no lifeguard on duty.

Meals

Children dine very well here – there are dedicated menus in both La Bastide and La Bergerie. You’ll not find anything so pedestrian as a chicken nugget in the former, where the kids’ menu has the likes of smoked trout and sour cream, fish and farm-fresh vegetables and crème caramel with wild thyme. Fear not if your kids aren’t food critics in waiting: La Bergerie has simpler fare (hamburgers, roast lamb, pasta and ice-cream).

Babysitting

The hotel can arrange babysitting from €20 an hour.

Also

Sleepiness and serenity are the point here, so bring distractions for squirmier kids to allow you to enjoy the pastoral peace too.

Sustainability efforts

The hotel’s restaurants use the landscape as a larder, ticking off their ingredient list using local orchards, farms and vineyards, plus ingredients from the hotel estate, vegetables from the kitchen garden, eggs from the coop and house olive oil.

Food and Drink

Photos Capelongue food and drink

Top Table

We love the picturesque serenity of La Bergerie’s terrace and taking drinks by the pool.

Dress Code

Pleasantly peasant-y for La Bergerie and ethereal lavender-gatherer for La Bastide.

Hotel restaurant

There are two eateries at the hotel: La Bastide, the culinary contender with a Michelin star twinkle in its eye; and the down-to-Earth La Bergerie, which has enticingly titled menus such as ‘shepherd’s temptations’, ‘wines we like’ and ‘to conclude this good moment’. Chef Noël Bérard has ingratiated himself with local suppliers, sourcing asparagus from Villelaure, truffles from Carpentras, lamb from Sisteron, trout from La Sorgue and more. La Bastide’s trio of menus (the Luberon, mini Luberon and garden – all for the table to share) give new life to regional ingredients with hot takes on traditional fare: Brousse-cheese stuffed agnolotti pasta with baby purple artichokes; Monteux pork with courgette caviar and grapefruit marmalade; honey pancakes with pistachio praline and lavender sorbet. What’s tempting those shepherds so much in La Bergerie? Loaded pissaladieres, Goult goat’s cheeses, pavlova with flame-grilled apricots… And, on Sundays, long lazy roasts are served at lunchtime.

Hotel bar

La Bergerie is the de facto bar here, but you could drink by the pool or in the garden, or on your terrace… Alongside nips of pastis and cognac, kick things off with a kir royale or a herb-muddled garden spritz. Unsurprisingly, French wines from terroirs you can probably spy from the poolside take precedence.

Last orders

At La Bergerie, lunch runs from 12 noon till 1.30pm, dinner from 7pm till 9.30pm. And La Bastide only opens for dinner, Thursday to Monday, from 7pm to 9pm.

Room service

Dine finely and Frenchly in-room from 11am till 10.30pm.

Location

Photos Capelongue location
Address
Capelongue
550 Chemin des Cabanes
Bonnieux
84480
France

The hotel sits amid the ‘golden triangle’ of the Luberon park, a five-minute walk from hilltop village Bonnieux, overlooking Mont Ventoux and the peaks of the Mont Vaucluse range, close to many treasures of the Vaucluse region.

Planes

The closest airport is Avignon, a 40-minute drive away; however, its direct flights are largely to and from major cities in Belgium. Marseille is much better connected, with routes throughout Europe and some further afield.

Trains

Even if you’re crossing a border, arriving by train is a breeze, with direct high-speed TGV services from Paris, Brussels, Geneva and Barcelona. So, UK arrivals can easily ride the Eurostar over and change.

Automobiles

There’s a reason why romantic film scenes set in the south of France take place in an open-topped sports car rather than on a bus; aside from the aesthetics, there are few of the latter to help you get around, making a set of wheels an essential.

Worth getting out of bed for

The Luberon has more exquisite hilltop villages than you could shake a baguette at. But, even with the stiff competition Bonnieux – a five-minute walk from the hotel – holds its own, with winding cobbled streets, still standing mediaeval marvels and stone houses with flowers trailing down the front. The hike to the 12th-century Gothic church at the top takes some adrenaline (although the views of Mont Ventoux and a sea of greenery are very rewarding), but otherwise life moves at an insouciant pace. Each Friday, market stalls laden with farm-fresh goods and local crafts pop up, and you can learn about vintage breadmaking methods at Musée de la Boulangerie. That covers most of what to do aside from wandering around ooh-ing and aah-ing, but arrive from 17 July to the 15 September and you can follow the annual Secret Art Trail organised by art collective Pablo. Each year, a theme is set and sculpture, drawing, painting and photograph installations are hidden in plain sight, often camouflaged into the timeless landscape; you’ll learn about the region’s modern-art scene and discover hidden corners of the village. You can also flex your creativity at the hotel – local artists are brought in to lead painting sessions, so you can follow in the impressionists’ footsteps. Otherwise, play badminton or pétanque, followed by a tot of cognac, and on Monday nights or Thursday mornings take yoga with a view, followed by a detox smoothie. And, from October to December you can help with the olive harvest, learning how they’re picked and milled before tasting the oil fresh from bottling. And, less than a 10-minute drive away is Château la Canorgue, an organic farm and vineyard where you can sip and swill some very moreish bottles. Those looking for more action can hike or bike up Mont Ventoux (about a 90-minute drive away) or trek through the thick cedar forest at the foot of Bonnieux’s hill. You’ll want to hop from village to village, too: walk Rousillon’s ochre trail; see the Marquis de Sade’s castle in Lacoste; venture through Gordes’ abbeys, castles and caves; and in Ménerbes visit the home of the artist Dora Maar (a muse of Picasso) and abstract artist Nicolas de Staël’s château. Plus, you can visit Capelongue’s sister stays. In Lourmarin, Le Moulin has cocktail-making sessions, a deli and can arrange tours of its olive mill La Bastide de Laval; and Le Galinier has an outdoor cinema. Plus, you can see the sparkling firmament uninterrupted after-dark, with the hotel’s stargazing sessions.

Local restaurants

The Beaumier hotel group is formed of decided gourmands, so the restaurant at Le Moulin is also acclaimed for its pan-Mediterranean fare and undeniably French dishes: fresh-from-the-oven fougasse, truffles liberally shaved over pasta… At, L'Arôme in Bonnieux, you can dine in a vaulted stone cellar. Food is simple and elegant, with salt-baked sea bream and bouillabaisse as the stand-outs, and some more experimental dishes, such as pink trout tartare with a wasabi marinade.

Reviews

Photos Capelongue reviews

Anonymous review

Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this picturesquely pastoral hotel in the Luberon and arranged the basketfuls of flowers they’ve gathered in artisanal terracotta vases bought in the local market, a full account of their vie en lavande break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside Capelongue Hotel in Provence…

Provence is perhaps the ultimate comfort destination: it envelopes you in a lavender-perfumed landscape of cypress, olive and almond trees; feeds you warm fresh bread, perfectly medium-rare steaks, truffle-topped pastas and steaming bouillabaisse; and hands you a glass of wine whenever you need it, like a trusted bestie. And, Capelongue Hotel, five minutes outside plus beau village Bonnieux, has captured the region’s rustic cosiness in its vintage farm buildings and country estate. It feels like a home with its antiques, flowers and local handicrafts, but there’s a bigger picture here, specifically the all-around views of the painter- and poet-inspiring Luberon national park, with its ancient hilltop villages and leafy mountains. Hike or bike to the upper echelons (church-topped peaks, cedar-clad summits), ride donkeys through the forest, canoe along Le Sorgue, learn about the creative characters who owned châteaux in the region (Camus, the Marquis de Sade, Picasso muse Dora Maar), and tipsily tour the vineyards. But idling is an art form here, so you could just lie back and listen to the cicadas chirp and the mistral breathe, roll pétanque balls about, sketch the scenery then take a leisurely meal of re-imagined local fare. Then, watch the stars streak across the sky and crawl under lavender-scented linens, comfy as can be. 

Price per night from $321.78

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