Cape Sounio

After the intense heat and crowds of Athens, arriving at Cape Sounio was a relief. We drove south from the city, through pale dusty landscapes and curiously barren industrial areas, until the road delivered us to the rugged headland at the southernmost tip of the Attica peninsula. Here, overlooking the Temple of Poseidon across the bay, we felt as if we'd stepped into another time. 

The resort’s main building takes its architectural cues from the ancient temple in its midst, with columns, big, airy rooms and fire pits that flicker to life when night falls. From here, the resort spills down the gently sloping hillside to the sea: a cluster of aquamarine pools, grassy lawns and glass-fronted bungalows tucked among the greenery. It’s a sizable place but not overwhelming; everything is within leisurely strolling distance. 

Our bungalow was particularly well positioned, opposite the pool and steps from the tunnel that leads down to the beach. Travelling with a toddler and a baby, we quickly came to appreciate the logistics. Forgot the armbands? Back we go. No baby wipes? No problem. Realised a certain favourite toy car was left in the room? A minor inconvenience, rather than the sort of expedition that could ruin an otherwise promising afternoon. A note: 'bungalow' is the word the hotel uses, but essentially it’s a mini villa, sleek and modern inside with two bedrooms, a living space and its own garden. Some come with private pools, too. 

We soon settled into an easy rhythm. Breakfast in the main building meant lots of fruit, Greek yoghurt and juice, followed by a migration down to a double lounger by the pool. Mr Smith and I took turns on baby duty, while the other splashed about in the pool with our toddler or wandered over to see what was happening under the trees. As it turns out, quite a lot. There are pottery workshops, chess and table-tennis tournaments, film nights, group jogs, cooking, yoga and HIIT classes. Each week, guests receive a new printed schedule, with most activities free to attend and no booking required.

Mr Smith and I have traditionally favoured boutique hotels where the only thing to do is stretch out in the sun and eat delicious food. A lot changes when you have children. Convenience suddenly counts for a lot. So do decent kids' menus, activities that might hold a small person’s attention for more than five minutes and the reassuring presence of other parents who don’t wince when your kid has a major meltdown in the middle of breakfast. We met some lovely families in the playground at dusk when it was cool enough for the children to tackle the climbing wall and play on the swings. 

Cape Sounio doesn’t brand itself as a family hotel, but it seems to understand the trick: keep the children happily occupied, give everyone enough room to spread out, and have snacks readily available. When they’re old enough, there’s also the kids' club, discreetly tucked behind the bungalows, leaving parents free to disappear to the spa for a while. Something to look forward to, we told ourselves.

We did, at least, manage a sneak peak of the spa one afternoon. We were gazing wistfully at the hydrotherapy pools when one of the therapists noticed the way I was holding the baby: one armed, at a lopsided angle. He gracefully showed me a position that was better for both my back and the baby’s. Later, when I confessed that my shoulders were no longer aching, Mr Smith remarked that if a few words of advice could do that, imagine what a massage could do. He had a point. 

Even without the spa, our days felt relaxed. Lunches of poke bowls and Greek salads arrived directly to our loungers, and were followed by a little nap if we were lucky. Then it was down to the beach for the afternoon, where we set up camp in a cabana. An ice bucket with a bottle of water and three glasses appeared. A drinks menu. A bucket and spade. 

The hours slipped by and before we knew it, it was 8pm. Barefoot and salt-washed, we’d wander back to our bungalow for a drink in our garden and room service for the toddler who we tucked into bed and then decided where to go for dinner. With several restaurants to choose from, each offering something a little different, there’s enough variety to keep things interesting over a longer stay.

Our favourite was Yali, the seafood restaurant on the beach, where tables sit out on a wooden pier above the water. Dishes include crispy fried squid, grilled fish served whole, and delicious dips and pitas. But the real draw is the view. Across the dark water, the Temple of Poseidon glows against the night sky. It’s difficult to imagine a more atmospheric spot for dinner.

On our final evening, a full moon had risen over the Aegean and, unsurprisingly, Yali was fully booked. We settled instead at the poolside Aegean Grill. Hardly a hardship: we ended up watching fireworks burst over the water, a fitting finale to a stay we’ve already been recommending to all of our friends.