Canto de Luz

Worth getting out of bed for

Rua do Almada is known for its…hardware stores. Sexy, right? Well, it’s not all spanners and stopcocks – over the years it’s attracted bohemian and literary sorts and back in the day, young women would flirt with dandies on horseback from their wrought-iron balconies. And now, it’s on the fast track to trendiness, with quirky concept stores like Almada 13 and Almada Em Branco, bookstores like Timtim por Timtim, and vintage shops like Wild at Heart. To the north is leafy Praça da República, but the main action is a 10-minute walk south in the belly of the Old Town. Start with Porto Cathedral and its baroque satellite churches: Igreja Do Carmo, Igreja de Santo Ildefonso, and Torre dos Clérigos, which you can climb for a humdinger of a 360-degree view. And stop to admire the Neoclassical Palácio da Bolsa. The surrounding riverside Ribeira neighbourhood is very photogenic and you can stay awhile to watch traditional Rabelo boats being made, then indulge your inner mariner with a shopping session at La Paz – a menswear store with sea-inspired wares. Get another unique aspect of the city by riding the Elevador da Lada for free, then go muse on Porto’s art scene. Start with the old masters at Museu da Misericórdia, well-composed snaps at the Centro Português de Fotografia, and hop around the smaller contemporary galleries that have given the area the name Bairro das Artes. And follow the hotel owners’ footsteps to Bolhão Market for a sensory overload, stopping by glorious antique grocery Pérola do Bolhão to pick up picnic bits. To be enjoyed in the elegantly landscaped Jardins do Palácio de Cristal.

Local restaurants

Set between the Atlantic, Douro’s winelands and abundant countryside, Porto was destined to draw food-lovers. Its two most famous dishes – a rich tripe stew, or francesinha, a sandwich stacked with meat and melted cheese – might divide camps, but there’s very much more to eating here. O Paparico has an olde-timey feel with stone walls, black-and-white photos and cabinets lined with traditional crockery, but the purposefully slight menu seeks to update rustic fare with the likes of king crab in a cabbage cream, red mullet with corn porridge and an elderflower sponge. The Portuense have strong opinions about who makes the best francesinha – you’ll need to do some delicious detective work to form your own, but you could start at Café Santiago, who make the most famous. O Buraco is your downtown go-to for old-school fare (yes, they serve tripe – but more too, for the squeamish), and Michelin-starred Almeja brings things right up to date, pairing asparagus with caviar, cheese and buttermilk; tossing goatling meat in rice with giblets; and punching up dulce de leche with a hit of spicy mole. Flow has East-West fusion fare in a glamorous Neo-Arabic building, and Boa Bao has pan-Asian dishes that zing with flavour. 

Local cafés

On Rua dos Bragas, Early looks like a Seventies office, but in a good way, with a lot of wood, plants and industrial lights. True to their name, they cater for the beginning of the day, with fabulous breakfasts and brunches: brioche French toast, pancakes, chia puddings, and a tempting selection of fresh breads and muffins. I Love Nicolau – a cosy joint with neons, mid-century seating and plentiful plants – is also renowned for its banoffee pancakes with dulce de leche, spiced porridge and healthy bowls, plus tacos and tasteful toasts. At number 63 on the hotel’s street is Arcádia, a bakery and chocolatier with an array of delightfully sticky bakes and more for sweet tooths. And for quirreling yourself away in a corner with a good book and a glass of wine, sultry part-bookstore Café Candelabro fits the bill.

Local bars

Bonaparte Downtown is a well-loved Porto institution. It has the cosiness and friendliness of an Irish pub – largely due to the elbow-jostling space available – albeit owned by a German. Somewhere to go for a beer or whisky if you start to flag on the local wines, its laidback nature keeps pulling in the punters. Set in a cheery yellow block, Aduela has a buzzy terrace that’s popular with the after-work crowd. The interiors are fairly humble, but again, its appeal lies in its unshowiness. Work your way through varying wine regions, a jug of sangria and a few chilled glasses of moscatel. For sundowners, head to the Douro edge, where Ponte Pensil bar perches on a turreted terrace by the Luíz I bridge. The perfect spot to get all moon-eyed over a few vinhos.