Borneta

The first time I set foot in Barcelona, I was just a teenager out on a trip with some friends. Back then, we were all about the party, and where we crashed felt like the least important thing. We squeezed five of us into a hostel room on Las Ramblas: something cheap, and right in the heart of it all, that was all we cared about.

Since then, I’ve returned countless times and stayed just about everywhere — from skyscrapers to pocket hotels — in a city that’s truly grown close to my heart and still manages to surprise me. The architecture alone is a constant thrill: from the gothic drama of the catedral to the sleek La Vela by the sea, the Modernist gems on Passeig de Gràcia, and of course, the mind-blowing Sagrada Família. 

But it’s not just about art and history — it’s a full-on Mediterranean mix of energy and ease. Party-goers spill out of clubs as runners hit the beach paths. You can lose yourself in giant malls or dig through indie concept stores. And the food – oh the food! Is there anything better in life than tapas?

Art, culture, nightlife and gastronomy all blend seamlessly with the sea, in a way you just won’t find anywhere else. But to really live Barcelona properly I quickly learned that where you stay matters way more than I thought. With so many hotels flooding the city, figuring out what makes one stand out becomes crucial. When I got to Borneta, the reason felt obvious. 

This boutique hotel embraces a refreshing simplicity and exudes a thoroughly contemporary charm. The reception area, where Mrs Smith and I arrived during the mid-afternoon check-in rush, felt more like a snug little lounge. While waiting, I sank into a comfy sofa and opened a copy of photographer Jean-Marie del Moral’s journey through the various workshops and studios of artist Miquel Barceló — suddenly, I had lost track of time.

It was 3.30pm, meaning lunchtime in Spain, and I heard the guests before me asking the woman at the desk for good restaurant recommendations nearby. She quickly offered several options based on their tastes and desires. Having already eaten, we headed upstairs to our room — a cosy nest with carefully curated decor, a comfortable bed and a small balcony overlooking Passeig de Picasso — where I found a welcome note signed by Quentin, the hotel’s Experience Manager.

My wife and I didn’t have any plans for dinner, but we noticed the hotel had its own restaurant. Quentin kindly booked us a table for 9pm, which left us plenty of time to explore the city. Conveniently, the hotel is located in El Born, one of the coolest neighborhoods in town, with its markets, artsy boutiques and narrow winding streets. El Born also borders the famous Barri Gòtic, the historic heart of the city, just a 10-minute walk from the hotel.

After a long stroll, we headed to the restaurant Volta, back at Borneta, to take a seat at our table. The waiter asked us to choose between the comfort of the spacious dining room — with its stunning, well-stocked bar topped by a glass canopy that lets the natural light sink in — or the terrace under the vaulted arcades of Passeig de Picasso. The evening was mild, so we opted for the terrace. But before sitting down, we were invited to head upstairs for a drink.

Yes, the hotel also has a rooftop bar, which — less expectedly — features a plunge pool. Not for swimming laps; it’s waist-deep, with a submerged bench running along one side, and clearly made for lounging, not exercise. I ordered an espresso martini, Mrs Smith an Arnold Palmer mocktail, and we stretched out on a day-bed, soaking in the view — and what a view.

I’ve frequented my fair share of rooftops in Barcelona, but this one’s different. It sits right at canopy level with Ciutadella Park across the street, giving off a lush, jungle-like vibe. Only the twin towers of Port Olímpic in the distance break the green horizon. With ambient music that turns into DJ sets on weekends, it’s the kind of place where you’re happy to wait for the sun to go down.

Back downstaiers, dinner at Volta was a real treat. Every plate arrived at the table looking like a small work of art, and the waiters took a moment to explain each one of them. The presentation was elegant, but the atmosphere stayed relaxed. It’s the kind of food you want to share. We started off with crispy fried oysters, topped with a citrus vinaigrette gel. Then came the mille-feuille bread, layered with marinated peppers, smoked sardines and parsley butter — rich and perfectly balanced. The veal tartare with bone marrow, tuna sauce, capers and polenta puffs definitely stood out. Same for the tagliolini in mussel cream — full of flavour and surprisingly light. We snacked on a bowl of marinated Galician olives throughout the meal.

For dessert, we went for the profiteroles with praline and hazelnut cream, a chef favourite, and rightly so. Every bite felt thoughtful, but unfussy. Just really good food, smartly made, and meant to be enjoyed. We washed it all down with Free Damm, the local alcohol-free beer. Cold, crisp, exactly what we needed. I hear the wine list is excellent, too. After a meal like that, it goes without saying — we slept like babies.

The next morning, we got up nice and early and headed to breakfast, had our eggs cooked to order and were very impressed by the generous buffet, packed with the best local produce, among which were slices of jamón ibérico of course, and even a smoked Spanish cheesecake with cherry coulis, which was unreal.

To work off the calories, we headed back to the rooftop for a morning yoga session — an hour guided by an expert under the soft sun, with that same view I just couldn’t get enough of. The kick-start to a perfect day.

Amid the city’s hustle and bustle, Borneta stands out as a peaceful haven — unpretentious, with a genuine passion for service and a cosy, modern vibe that just makes you want to come back again and again. My wife has already pinned the place on her Mapstr and is planning to return with a friend. Looks like I might just do the same.