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Hotel Highlights

  • Incredible Japanese food
  • The style: traditional with an update
  • Free yoga every day


At Beniya Mukayu hotel in Kanazawa, you can eat kaiseki-style, kip on futons, start every day with free yoga and end every night in your private onsen (spa bath). Beniya hotel has developed its own wine, coffee, bath products, pottery and wabi-sabi philosophy. Expect the best night's sleep of your life here.

Smith Extra

Here's what you get for booking Beniya Mukayu with us:

A glass of local wine or sake each at dinner


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Need To Know


17, including seven suites.


By 11am; check-in, from 3pm.


Double rooms from $513.99 (JPY62,492), excluding tax at 18 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of JPY150.00 per person per night on check-out.

More details

Breakfast and traditional kaiseki dinners are included in the rates; WiFi is free, as are hotel transfers from JR Kaga Onsen station (let staff know your train times well in advance; the free shuttle bus is only available between 2.20pm and 6pm).


Beniya Mukatu’s bath products were developed by the owners with the help of a prominent biochemist, using medicinal herbs and water from the local hot springs.

At the hotel

Gardens; tea house; spa; library; boutique. In rooms: TV, DVD player, CD player, minibar, kimonos, bathrobes, slippers, signature Yakushiyama bath products, spa bath.

Our favourite rooms

We’re already saving for a return stay in one of the Executive Suites, which have a serene bedroom and a bamboo-floored sitting area with a traditional tatami (straw) mat and a low table for taking tea, plus rattan chairs overlooking the garden. The eight Japanese Premier rooms offer the same authentic experience, for fewer yen: if you want to spend your nights (and days too, perhaps) on a futon, opt for a Japanese Premier Tatami Garden room, which also have a terrace, a hammock and of course, an onsen (spa bath).


There’s no pool, but every room has an open-air onsen (hot-spring bath).

Packing tips

Leave room in your suitcase for Beniya’s beautiful local pottery (used in the restaurant), fragrant bath products and gorgeous yukatas (casual, light kimonos), all of which are sold in the boutique.


Begin each day with free yoga in the ground-floor Horin (the symbolic 'forest', where meals are also served), taught by lovely owner Sachiko. Look out for Kenya Hara’s mesmerising large-scale art work, Ho-Sun – who knew drops of water could be so hypnotic?


Over-sevens only, please.

Food & Drink

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Hotel Restaurant

We can’t think of anywhere better to discover kaiseki cuisine: traditional feasts consisting of countless beautifully presented, delicate dishes. Dinner here is a 10-course affair (served on exquisitely dainty local pottery), so put aside two or three hours to explore new culinary horizons: karuma-ebi (konbu-flavoured prawn with sea urchin and avocado); flounder sashimi; local crab with amber jelly; steamed bamboo shoots, and duck meat balls served in a hot pot. Thanks to the hotel's proximity to the Sea of Japan, and the calibre of the local seafood, there's a fishy focus (please contact the property in advance if you would like to request any food preference/allergy).

Hotel Bar

None, but there's an area by the lobby where fresh fruit juice, coffee and (sometimes) Japanese desserts are served, with choices changing seasonally.


Last orders

Meals are served at set times: breakfast at 8am, 8.30am and 9am; dinner at 6pm, 6.30pm, 7pm and 7.30pm.

Room service

To order food to your room, you’ll need to be staying in the Wakamurasaki Suite, which has a long Japanese dining table and tatami mat, designed for memorable in-room banquets.

Smith Insider

Dress code

Your gorgeous green, white and blue leaf-patterned yukata (kimono), which the owners would like you to model throughout.

Top table

All tables are the same, continuing the hotel's egalitarian ethos, which sees all guests dressed in the same kimonos. When the first of your many dishes arrives, you won't give a monkey's where you are; you'll be too busy admiring what's on your plate.

Local Guide

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Eat, drink, see, do: local favourites and more…

Worth getting out of bed for

The little town of Yamashiro is 1,300 years old, and is famous for its hot springs and its Kutani-yaki porcelain, which you can stock up on in town; put your yukarta on and go exploring. Kanazawa is 40 minutes away (a 15-minute drive to the airport, and a 25-minute train ride from there). It’s definitely worth the trip: it’s one of the few Japanese cities that weren’t bombed during WWII and has some of the best–preserved samarai (Naga-machi Buke Yashiki District) and geisha (Higashi Chaya District) districts in the whole country. Kanazawa’s most famous sites include the ruins of Kanazawa Castle (+81 76 234 3800) and Kenroku-en Garden (+81 76 234 3800 ), one of Japan’s three most beautiful gardens. Don't miss the futuristic 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (+81 76 220 2800;‎) at 1-2-1 Hirosaka, designed by Sanaa's renowned architects, Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa.


Local restaurants

Try the excellent soba noodles at little Yamase (+81 76 176 0357) at Yamashiro Onsen. It draws a loyal lunchtime crowd. Yamasan (+81 76 221 0055; is a sushi restaurant set right in Kanazawa's food market, so you’re guaranteed the freshest daily produce. For more succulent sashimi, try Kame Sushi (+81 76 176 0556;, a short stroll from the hotel at Ishikawa Kaga Yamashiro Onsen.

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Lush Yamashiro gardens

Beniya Mukayu

55-1-3 Yamashiro Onsen, Kaga, Ishikawa, 922-0242

The hotel is in Yamashiro, a small spa town that's a 50-minute drive from Kanazawa.


Komatsu Airport ( is the closest, 15km from the hotel (a half-hour drive). China Eastern Airlines and Korean Airways offer international flights; you can also get domestic flights from Tokyo and other cities with Japan Airlines and other carriers. Alternatively, fly into Kansai International Airport, three hours away by car (‎).


JR Kaga Onsen is the closest station, 7km away (a 15-minute drive). It takes four hours to get here by train from Tokyo if you hop on the JR Tokaido Shinkansen train to Maibara and transfer to a JR Shirasagi limited express train to Kaga Onsen (‎). The hotel offers free transfers from the station (just remember to tell the hotel your travel times in advance).


Kanazawa is the closest city, just under an hour's drive away. From Osaka (three-and-a-half hours by car), take the Meishin and Hokuriku Jidoshado highways. From Tokyo (a six-hour drive), take the Tomei, Meishin and Hokuriku Jidoshado highways. From Nagoya (two hours and 40 minutes by car), take the Meishin and Hokuriku Jidoshado highways.


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Beniya Mukayu
Beniya Mukayu 55-1-3 Yamashiro Onsen Kaga 922-0242 Kanazawa Japan

Anonymous review

Rating: 10/10 stars
Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this serene hotel in Japan and unpacked their yukartas and Japanese pottery, a full account of their luxury Yamashiro break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside Beniya Mukayu…
Read more

Beniya Mukayu

By Mr & Mrs Smith.

Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this serene hotel in Japan and unpacked their yukartas and Japanese pottery, a full account of their luxury Yamashiro break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside Beniya Mukayu in Kanazawa…

This is a hotel of quiet pleasures. It doesn’t shout or scream; it whispers. The hotel's highlights are physical and holistic – hot-spring baths, morning yoga and seafood feasts – but your mind will feel the effects, too. From the graceful tea ceremony performed in the garden’s tea house as a welcome gesture by the owner, to the fragrant incense burning in rooms and the natural light streaming through the windows, expect to feel thoroughly zen throughout. Even if you're not used to bedding down on a futon, you'll sleep deliciously here – thanks in part to the aromatherapy oils guests are invited to choose each night to be diffused in their room: pick from Relaxing (orange bergamot); Cool Down (tea tree, peppermint, eucalyptus) and Night Night (lavender, ylang ylang and sandalwood). 

To be honest, we can’t put it better than the quietly contemplative words of Kiyoshi Sey Takeyama, the architect behind Beniya. In relation to the project, he wrote: ''Consider the time that rests as empty space in a busy schedule book. It is in fact time filled with freedom because it is empty. It is the peace of mind found in the shade of a large tree which had initially appeared useless. Such are the thoughts and feelings that reside in the name of this inn 'Mukayu''...


The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith hotel with us, we'll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members have to say about Beniya Mukayu in the Guestbook below…


Stayed on

We loved

the staff, the calmness of the hotel. The private onsen. Food was delicious but 2 nights with 9 courses every night got a bit much. If you don't like a specific type of food, then tell them and they will accommodate you.

Rating: 8/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

I loved the beautiful, delicious food served, excellent drinks and great spa.

Don’t expect

I would've liked a more flexible schedule for meals.

Rating: 10/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

Beniya Mukayu is heaven: wonderful staff who could not do enough to help us; food that was out of this world; the Japanese Premier room we stayed in was a beautiful space to relax in and gave us an authentic Japanese ryokan experience with our own hot spring bath (onsen); I would highly recommend the tea ceremony and early morning yoga class. We ended a busy tour of Japan with a night here and it was a great decision – I loved every minute of our short time there and just wish it could have been longer!

Don’t expect

I thought communication before our stay about how to get to the hotel could be better, although it was easy to reach (we took a taxi from Kagaonsen train station).

Rating: 9/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

I liked having our own hot tub on the balcony in the cold, the fantastic food, great atmosphere (especially in the dining room with everyone dressed in their yukata). I can't think of anything that could be better – everyone was fantastic and the staff was really helpful!


Rating: 8/10 stars