Need to know
17, including seven suites.
By 11am; check-in, from 3pm.
Double rooms from $631.79 (JPY71,644), excluding tax at 18 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of JPY150.00 per person per night on check-out.
Breakfast and traditional kaiseki dinners are included in the rates; WiFi is free, as are hotel transfers from JR Kaga Onsen station (let staff know your train times well in advance; the free shuttle bus is only available between 2.20pm and 6pm).
Begin each day with free yoga in the ground-floor Horin (the symbolic 'forest', where meals are also served), taught by lovely owner Sachiko. Look out for Kenya Hara’s mesmerising large-scale art work, Ho-Sun – who knew drops of water could be so hypnotic?
At the hotel
Gardens; tea house; spa; library; boutique. In rooms: TV, DVD player, CD player, minibar, kimonos, bathrobes, slippers, signature Yakushiyama bath products, spa bath.
Our favourite rooms
We’re already saving for a return stay in one of the Executive Suites, which have a serene bedroom and a bamboo-floored sitting area with a traditional tatami (straw) mat and a low table for taking tea, plus rattan chairs overlooking the garden. The eight Japanese Premier rooms offer the same authentic experience, for fewer yen: if you want to spend your nights (and days too, perhaps) on a futon, opt for a Japanese Premier Tatami Garden room, which also have a terrace, a hammock and of course, an onsen (spa bath).
There’s no pool, but every room has an open-air onsen (hot-spring bath).
Leave room in your suitcase for Beniya’s beautiful local pottery (used in the restaurant), fragrant bath products and gorgeous <i>yukatas</i> (casual, light kimonos), all of which are sold in the boutique.
Beniya Mukatu’s bath products were developed by the owners with the help of a prominent biochemist, using medicinal herbs and water from the local hot springs.
Over-sevens only, please.