Need to know
17, including seven suites.
By 11am; check-in, from 3pm.
Double rooms from $646.60 (JPY71,644), excluding tax at 18 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of JPY150.00 per person per night on check-out.
Breakfast and traditional kaiseki dinners are included in the rates; WiFi is free, as are hotel transfers from JR Kaga Onsen station (let staff know your train times well in advance; the free shuttle bus is only available between 2.20pm and 6pm).
Begin each day with free yoga in the ground-floor Horin (the symbolic 'forest', where meals are also served), taught by lovely owner Sachiko. Look out for Kenya Hara’s mesmerising large-scale art work, Ho-Sun – who knew drops of water could be so hypnotic?
At the hotel
Gardens; tea house; spa; library; boutique. In rooms: TV, DVD player, CD player, minibar, kimonos, bathrobes, slippers, signature Yakushiyama bath products, spa bath.
Our favourite rooms
We’re already saving for a return stay in one of the Executive Suites, which have a serene bedroom and a bamboo-floored sitting area with a traditional tatami (straw) mat and a low table for taking tea, plus rattan chairs overlooking the garden. The eight Japanese Premier rooms offer the same authentic experience, for fewer yen: if you want to spend your nights (and days too, perhaps) on a futon, opt for a Japanese Premier Tatami Garden room, which also have a terrace, a hammock and of course, an onsen (spa bath).
There’s no pool, but every room has an open-air onsen (hot-spring bath).
Leave room in your suitcase for Beniya’s beautiful local pottery (used in the restaurant), fragrant bath products and gorgeous yukatas (casual, light kimonos), all of which are sold in the boutique.
Beniya Mukatu’s bath products were developed by the owners with the help of a prominent biochemist, using medicinal herbs and water from the local hot springs.
Over-sevens only, please.