Amanemu

I had always dreamt of staying at an Aman hotel. I just knew, without having previously visited one, that they would be my favorite group of hotels. Perhaps it was the way they don’t shout about their greatness; they quietly and discreetly promote their incredible properties. Or maybe it was their design, the way each stay is so brilliantly conceived to ensure it blends seamlessly into its environment – locations chosen for their spectacular uniqueness.

So finally, after so many years, I made it to my first Aman hotel: the incredible Amanemu in Japan’s Ise-Shima National Park. Another Aman trait is breathtakingly ‘away from it all’ settings, so admittedly it was a bit of a mission to get to. We arrived from art-dedicated island Naoshima in the south, so our journey involved local buses and ferries and trains: – a high-speed Shinkansen followed by another train – and then a private shuttle. But, I would happily have travelled for another five days if the end result was a stay at Amanemu.

On arrival at Kashikojima train station we were greeted with refreshing chilled towels and bottled water by the sweetest, most humble of hotel drivers. On the 30-minute drive from the station he pointed out famous local sights along the way; the area surrounding Ise-Shima National Park is renowned for its shrines, including Ise Jingu – one of the most revered and oldest in Japan (at approximately 2,000 years old). It was built using only wood – no nails, no other materials – an incredible feat. Our charming host at Amanemu explained that the shrine is renovated every 20 years, so this unique, traditional style of building style is passed down to the younger generation.

Amanemu sits at the end of a long, winding driveway. The peaceful property is surrounded by lush greenery and gardens of bright yellow flowers, dotted with black, shrine-style wooden pavilions. With views over the painterly landscape and out to the blue waters of Ago Bay, the setting here is absolutely Aman-worthy; and, designed by Australian architect, Kerry Hill, the contemporary architecture is sympathetic to traditional Japanese style.

We stayed in the Sora Suite, a villa crafted from pale wood with views out over the water. Behind sliding screen doors we found our own private onsen (a mineral-rich hot tub), and I loved with twin mirrors and sinks, charcoal-colored basalt-stone tiles, and a beautiful rain shower.. Everything was so thoughtfully designed. The beds offered next-level comfort, and after the lovely, discreet turn-down service each evening we found gifts of beautifully-wrapped incense on the super-soft pillows.

 We also fell in love with the black, minimalist, wood-panelled interiors of the main house – a nod to the classic Japanese ryokan (an Edo-era inn) aesthetic. Despite it being winter, we made sure to jump in the eye-catching, 33-metre, heated pool each morning to swim laps amid wisps of steam rising from the surface. From the infinity edge, the views out to the sea were incredible.

Staff at Amanemu – and everywhere in Japan, I suppose – were kind, humble, discreet and helpful. They’d bend over backwards to attend to your every need. You can be ferried around the property by golf buggy if you wish, just give them a call and they will collect you from wherever you are. Amanemu's award-winning spa has a bank of open-air onsens filled with natural, mineral-rich waters. It’s recommended to hop between the hot and cold onsens to help with circulation and detoxification; when we mentioned we didn't have our bathing suits with us, staff quickly offered us a pair of one-piece, zoot-suit-style numbers instead. We donned our new swimwear and bounced between the onsens, before settling in for a blissful 90-minute Seasonal Journey treatment in one of the light-filled treatment rooms. Oils infused with in-season botanicals were rubbed into our palms, and after a few deep breaths the treatment began. Our feet were gently soaked in oil and wasabi salt, before we had the massages of our dreams, followed by a fragrant cup of tea. Yoga is offered too.

The hotel’s food was healthy and plentiful. Portions were extremely generous, starting with a mammoth feast for breakfast. We opted for the Japanese selection: local seafood from the bay, and other local delicacies. That night we stayed in and ordered room service; a slightly more Westernised selection of burgers and linguine pescatore, which were both delicious. We washed them down with a bottle of Australian shiraz – happy days, indeed.

Here, you do as little or as much as you like; the setting absolutely promotes rest and relaxation amid the natural beauty of the surrounds. We recommend asking the friendly staff to arrange a driver to take you to Ise Jingu – an incredible day out that immerses you in the spirituality and history of the area. It’s also crazy to miss out on the spa treatments, or doing laps in the pool, or biking through the grounds, or being chauffeured around in a golf buggy… Although even just chilling-out is special in this superlative stay.

I was blown away by my first Aman experience, and now I plan on hitting up the remainder of their 31 properties across the world, somehow, sometime soon.