Almanac Palais Vienna

Vienna is a city that has always sung to me. It’s where my grandmother lived in the 1950s, working as a career woman for the United Nations while training to sing opera, and where she met my grandfather. For years, I’d imagined visiting in spring or just before Christmas, when I pictured the city at its most cinematic, but the timing never quite worked out. This time, a spontaneous trip with friends to Budapest presented the perfect opportunity. When they left, I hopped on a train to Vienna, a two-and-a-half-hour journey costing less than €20. It felt faintly like stepping into Before Sunrise, though sadly there was no Ethan Hawke in sight.

I booked a last-minute stay at Almanac Palais Vienna, tucked discreetly into the city’s historic First District. The location is excellent, a stone’s throw from the Stadtpark and the Ringstrasse, and within easy walking distance of most of the city’s major sights. Vienna is wonderfully walkable, and without really trying I clocked up between 10,000 and 20,000 steps a day. The hotel is also well connected, with tram lines and the U-Bahn close by, and it’s convenient both from the main station and the airport.

When I arrived at the hotel, the atmosphere felt buzzy and glamorous. Luxury brands, including Yves Saint Laurent Beauty, were hosting events in the function spaces. Contemporary artworks adorn the dramatic internal courtyard that rises floor to ceiling through the building. Check-in was warm and efficient, and I was shown to a beautiful Junior Suite on the ninth floor.

The room itself felt cocooning and calm, a welcome contrast to the below-freezing temperatures outside. A short flight of steps led down into a lounge area, where I was greeted by a traditional Viennese chocolate cake, a Sachertorte, gleaming invitingly on the table. By day, large circular windows, like the portholes of a ship, flooded the room with light. The bed was vast and cloud-like, facing a television — after days of constant movement, it was hard to imagine a more appealing set-up for a night in.

The decor throughout the hotel is sleek and contemporary, with dark woods and high-end finishes, more pared-back and masculine than my usual taste for chintzy maximalism, but undeniably elegant. The room is impressively hi-tech, with digital panels controlling temperature, lighting and curtains. Closing the curtains felt satisfyingly futuristic, though I did have to phone reception for a quick tutorial. The lighting presets were limited to 'Work', 'Relax' and 'Night', and while I would have liked more flexibility, once mastered the system worked well.

After settling in, I took a tram to the Belvedere Palace to see Gustav Klimt’s works in person. The Kiss is genuinely breathtaking, one of those rare artworks that feels even more magical in real life. On the way back, I stopped at Café Schwarzenberg, a grand old Viennese coffee house, for apple strudel and a wiener melange, the perfect way to warm up and ease into the rhythm of the city.

Back at the hotel, I worked comfortably from the desk in my room, where the 'Work' lighting setting came into its own. Exhaustion eventually won, and I ordered room service, my first proper wiener schnitzel, served with potatoes and cranberry sauce. It was exactly what I needed, eaten from bed beneath an antiqued mirrored ceiling, and I slept deeply.

Breakfast the next morning was served in a spacious minimalist dining room that leaned more functional than cosy. Asking for a traditional recommendation resulted in an extremely generous platter of hams, cheeses, fish and bread, easily enough for several people, which conveniently covered both breakfast and lunch.

I spent the day wandering Vienna’s elegant streets, starting at the Austrian National Library (Österreichische Nationalbibliothek). Its soaring frescoed ceilings, gold-leaf detailing and towering mahogany bookcases transported me straight into Beauty and the Beast. From there, I explored the city’s architectural heritage, including the modernist legacy of Adolf Loos, Otto Wagner and Josef Hoffmann.

A sugar craving led me to Demel, Vienna’s legendary chocolatier. From the opulent interiors to the exquisite packaging, it’s pure indulgence. I ordered its famous kaiserschmarrn with vanilla sauce and plum compote, and wondered how I would ever return to normal eating habits.

One of the great joys of Vienna is how fiercely it protects its cultural heritage. Art deco, modernist and even earlier styles of shops and cafés have retained their original façades and interiors, lovingly maintained and embraced by all generations. Altmann & Kühne, the exquisite confectioner known for its hand-made chocolates and historic packaging, is a perfect example.

That evening, I secured a €15 standing ticket at the Vienna State Opera for The Marriage of Figaro. Four hours later, feet aching but heart full, I followed it with a Negroni at Loos American Bar. The tiny, jewel-box bar was alive with conversation, locals and visitors mingling easily, from former fashion directors to wine producers and travellers from across the world. A heartfelt 'Prost!' echoed through the room as drinks flowed.

The following day, I booked myself into the hotel’s spa to nurse a slight hangover. Reaching it requires navigating a small maze of lifts and corridors, but the effort is rewarded. I had the pool, sauna and steam room entirely to myself, and after a swim and steam, I felt reborn. My 75-minute facial and massage with the beauty and massage therapist, Nooi, was exceptional. She truly has the touch of an angel, and I emerged feeling lighter, calmer and restored.

On my final day, I opted for an early night and a more restrained breakfast of smoked salmon, avocado and fried egg on rye, before heading back out into the city. I visited the MAK Museum of Applied Arts, enjoyed another schnitzel at Zum Schwarzen Kameel, admired glassware at Lobmeyr, wandered the Dorotheum auction house, indulged once more at Café Central, and finished my trip with a concert of Mozart and Vivaldi at the Musikverein, followed by a quiet nightcap at Kleines Café.

Vienna is endlessly rich in beauty, culture and warmth, and Almanac Palais Vienna makes a refined, centrally located base from which to explore it. I already can’t wait to return.