Need to know
Seventeen, including three suites (one tented).
Noon, but flexible, subject to availability. Check-in, 1pm.
Double rooms from $276.61 (INR19,266), excluding tax at 28 per cent.
Rates innclude three meals a day, all drinks, some local excursions in Maheshwar, and laundry services.
Dine on a private island in the Narmada River: enjoy mocktails and snacks before settling on an intricately patterned rug and feasting on Indian delicacies. A tailoring service is also available to guests on request.
At the hotel
A library with a TV. WiFi is free, but spotty in some areas of the hotel; a computer room with wired Internet is available for black-outs. In rooms: tea- and coffee-making facilities, free bottled water and air-conditioning.
Our favourite rooms
Set in a private garden, high on a terrace overlooking the river, the Royal Arjun Tent has swathes of canvas for that ‘under the stars’ (but warm, cosy and – mostly - WiFi-blessed) feel. Its large four-poster bed, freestanding bath tub and plunge pool also wooed us. Assume a Sheherazade position on a pile of reclining cushions and watch the world go languidly by outside...
The hotel’s large, outdoor, freshwater pool is surrounded by tropical foliage and looks especially grand in its palatial 18th-century surroundings.
There's no spa, but private or couples’ Maheshwari massages are held in a peaceful treatment room; a masseur can be summoned on request, and staff know who has the nimblest fingers in town. Yoga classes are held in the hotel's gardens too.
Maheshwar is a conservative city; pack a limb-covering wardrobe to wear beyond the hotel doors. Delicate Maheshwari silk or cotton scarves fold up into slender packages, so all the more reason to bring a stash back; they’re ideal for covering your shoulders in temples, too.
All ages are welcome, but the hotel’s best suited to older children and teenagers due to its high terraces and balconies. Baby cots can be added to all rooms.