100 Princes Street

Scotland-maxxing isn’t a word, but it should be — at least when it comes to 100 Princes Street. Its emphasis on local heritage is clear from the second Mr Smith and I check into this sophisticated Georgian townhouse hotel, which sits discreetly off the hustle and bustle of Edinburgh’s namesake shopping street. The walls and soft furnishings are showcase custom tartans by Edinburgh-based designer and weaver Araminta Campbell. In honour of the building’s past as the former Royal Overseas League headquarters, the walls are lined with portraits of Scottish explorers, and a five-storey mural depicting flora and fauna from all over the world stretches from the ground floor to the very top of the hotel. 

After arriving from London by train, we’re offered a much-needed complimentary drink in the hotel bar and restaurant — only open to guests and their friends — which is resplendent thanks to a view of Edinburgh Castle. Our terrace suite is adorned with suave shades of green, with a king-size bed and a black marble bathroom. The room is fit for Bonnie Prince Charles himself, save for the disappointing lack of view from our terrace, which is blocked by the neighbouring buildings. In keeping with its heritage, the decor is all very masculine, though we are greeted with sweet touches such as ginger biscuits, brownie bites and orange cake in the room. The minibar is well-equipped with Lind & Lime gin, Pekoe tea, House of Edinburgh shortbread and a coffee machine for morning beverages — necessary fuel for exploring this notoriously hilly Scottish city. 

The old part of Edinburgh is compact and walkable, and 100 Princes Street is in the middle of everything — the Royal Scottish Academy and the National Galleries of Scotland are just a five-minute stroll away. After attending a book talk at the historic Church Hill Theatre, organised by beloved local institution The Portobello Bookshop, we headed back to the hotel restaurant for a nightcap and a bite to eat. Staff at The Wallace graciously snuck us in before last orders, and we selected divine blinis topped with Scottish salmon, a delicious chopped chicken salad and a sticky toffee pudding. 

Eating became the overriding theme of our trip to Edinburgh, where the food scene has exploded in the last few years. The hotel serves a generous full Scottish breakfast with classics like tattie scones and black pudding, though a Continental breakfast is available. A 15-minute walk away is Lannan Bakery, said to have the best viennoiserie in Scotland — I can confirm its cardamom kouign-amann is as good as TikTok says. 

We walked off the carbs with a hike up Arthur’s Seat, which took us past hills of yellow gorse in full bloom and rewarded us with spectacular views right across to the sea. Trainers or hiking boots are recommended, since the path is unpaved and you may struggle to clamber up the rocks to reach the highest point. Now suitably famished, we returned to 100 Princes Street to try its extremely generous high tea, a spread of sandwiches, scones and cake that we couldn’t finish, so we took the rest away in a doggy bag. Tea aficionados will be impressed by the large selection of black and herbal teas, which include an exquisitely fragrant house black-tea blend, handpicked from an estate in Sri Lanka. If your vice is a little harder, you'll be pleased to know that The Wallace also offers whisky-tasting sessions.

After a post-hike snooze under the cloud-like duvet, we emerged into the cool Edinburgh evening for our reservation at one of the city’s most in-demand restaurants: Montrose, which does effortlessly refined seasonal European cooking with an unfussy Scottish twist. I’ll be dreaming of the salt-fish fritters, served in cheerful gingham paper with a bright aioli, for a long time. 

On returning to our room for the night, we found a box of dark chocolates awaiting us — yet another one of the hotel’s thoughtful touches. The staff made us feel well taken care of, with service that was never obtrusive but clearly considered. If I were to return, I’d take advantage of the exacting concierge service, who can plan Loch Lomond trips and other excursions for guests. We checked out the next morning — not yet maxxed out on Scottishness, but feeling full to the brim with Caledonian cheer.