If you are what you eat, then I’m now a plate of bal kaymak and a sesame simit — that’d be a hearty dollop of clotted-cream doused in honey, and a pretzel-like bread. After spending four days in Istanbul, I’ve ticked off two continents, countless mosques and north of 80,000 steps — so it’s hardly surprising I’ve had a healthy appetite to match. Thankfully, Istanbul’s food scene is vast and varied: you’ll be tucking into a mackerel wrap waterside one minute and a steaming plate of Michelin-worthy manti (meat-filled dumplings) the next.
Here are some of the best places to eat in Turkey’s storied capital city.
Best for breakfast
There are a multitude of eateries lining the banks of the Bosphorus strait that serve bal kaymak, but Boris’in Yeri is a favourite. It’s a historic local dairy whose family feel gives it an intimate edge. This is no-frills dining, with mismatching furniture, a simple menu and baskets of soft baguette plonked on every table. Make sure to bring cash, and order a portion of menemen (scrambled eggs cooked with herbs, tomatoes and green peppers), eggs cooked with garlic and sausages, and Turkish tea to complete your meal.
If you need more of a caffeine kick, the lively Beyoğlu neighbourhood won’t leave you wanting for a decent flat white. Try Petra Roasting Co — an industrial-style spot with smooth coffee, cakes and a pleasing decor of dark-wood benches, cork cushions and aluminium tables; or World House Coffee Co, which has street-facing seating ideal for a slow morning of people watching.
Best for brunch
You’re guaranteed a warm welcome at Cafe Privato, on the doorstep of the grand Galata Tower. Stop by mid-morning for Türk kahvaltısı: a multi-dish meal made up of fresh bread, cheeses, olives, eggs, honey and jam, accompanied with steaming Turkish tea. Or try Nørre Istanbul, a Scandinavian-inspired restaurant, which is great for solo travellers. Mr Smith and I loved the scrambled eggs with cheese, baked baby potatoes and homemade pickles; the classic Danish breakfast, with eggs, grainy sourdough, cherry jam and whipped butter; and the hearty stack of French toast we had to finish.
Best for traditional Turkish fare
The theatrics are just as important as the food at Pandeli, a turquoise-tiled haunt dating back to 1901, with a notable list of prior patrons (Audrey Hepburn, Queen Elizabeth II and founding father of the Republic of Türkiye, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, to name a few). Walk-ins are welcome, and usually accommodated, and we recommend stopping by for a long lunch after stockpiling sumac at the Spice Bazaar below. Try the patlıcanı böreği (eggplant pie), which is served with a sliver of döner kebab on top; the grilled seabass with ıspanak püresi ile (mashed spinach); and the oven-baked white fish cooked in paper. After placing your order, sit back with a pint of Turkish-made Efes beer and take in the constant flurry. Waiters zip in and out of the kitchen through the swinging, dark-wood kitchen door, but the pace of the place is part of its charm.
Cross the Galata Bridge to Karaköy and you’ll find an abundance of stalls selling fish sandwiches (the stall we ordered from is unironically saved as Fish Sandwich on Google Maps). Mackerel is grilled on makeshift barbecues fashioned from wooden pallets and cardboard boxes, then wrapped in lavash bread with fresh salad, tomatoes and onions, before being grilled once again and topped with sauces and spices. Enjoy as a late-afternoon snack while sitting on the pier, as you watch the sun dip down into the Golden Horn.
For a casual dinner, head to Pera Antakya, an unassuming restaurant beneath a hotel, just off buzzy Istiklal Street. It’s also ideal for groups, given the sharing nature of the menu. We loved the eight-dip meze platter and the lamb shish.
Best for a city sundowner
If, like me, you’re a sucker for a city-break sunset then the rooftop bar at Smith hideout, The Bank Hotel, is one for your list. Choose from hand-shaken cocktails, local beers and elegant wines and make sure to get there in plenty of time (around 6pm is a good shout) to nab a perimeter table with sweeping views across the river to Eminönü.
Best for low-lit, late-night meals
After diving into the chaos of Istanbul’s streets, cosy up in a candlelit corner of Yeni Lokanta. A thoughtfully curated, seven- or nine-course tasting menu brings together bold, modern flavours and traditional Turkish cuisine (though there is an à la carte menu, too). Our favourite dishes were the manti; prawns from the coastal Mersin region, with carrot and ginger; and warm baklava roll with pistachios, orange candy and coconut ice cream. Don’t leave your drinks to chance — opt-in to the handy wine pairing, too.
Tucked inside the courtyard of 19th-century Palazzo Corpi is the Soho House Istanbul outpost of Mediterranean eatery Cecconi’s. Tables are scattered between olive trees and antique pillars, making it a deeply romantic spot for after-dark dining. Start with a Negroni, then follow with the crostini with whipped ricotta and truffle honey, the cacio e pepe tagliolini, and a Milanese to share.
Best for a nightcap
Try as much of the drinks list as time allows at Tavern, a bijou bar that’s at its liveliest on the weekend. The ‘Metametameta 3.0’ is balanced and botanical, with gin mare, chamomile-infused vermouth, pine bitters and pine-cone syrup. Or try the Deep Fake Negroni — a woody, caramelly concoction with black rum, Campari, pine honey, coconut oil, cinnamon, Jön Fleur de Sel chocolate and sumac-infused vermouth.
If you’re bedding down at Soho House Istanbul, it’s also worth stopping by the main palazzo building and its decadent central bar, low-slung armchairs and fresco-adorned walls for a final nightcap— you’ll be forgiven for feeling smug about the agreeable saunter back to your bedroom.
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