When to go
June onwards brings a festival fest to the region, adding extra colour to your visit. For a balance of crowds versus weather, spring months March to May are favourable, beating September and October by a whisker. If you don’t mind cooler temperatures, have Umbria to yourself, December to February.
PlanesPerugia is the hub airport for Umbria; from the UK | Rynair flies there from London Stansted (www.ryanair.com). The region is roughly in the middle between Rome and Florence (around 150km to each) for other flight options.
TrainsTerni and Orvieto can each be reached from Rome in an hour; Foligno is one hour 40 minutes from Ancona by rail (www.ferroviedellostato.it).
AutomobilesIt’s handy to have wheels for exploring this rustic region. At Perugia airport companies including Avis have desks (www.avis.com).
TaxisIn Orvieto, try Catarcia Simone Taxi Service (+39 360 433016; www.orvietotaxi.it). For cabs around Norcia, Piazzale Giovanni Polvani operates out of Spoleto (+39 0743 220489).
It takes one look at Cardinal Bontadosi’s former home in Montefalco to see that men of the cloth had a good time in mediaeval Italy. All domed ceilings and ancient art, this 15th-century palace has been restored to full Renaissance glory – stone staircases, iron chains in frames and mounted mediaeval artefacts – with a contemporary frisson, thanks to the modern art gallery attached. Junior Suite 4 is certainly a room with a view: gaze at the colonnaded square below from the window, admire the frescoed, chandeliered ceiling from the comfort of the huge bed, or spy on your roommate in the freestanding egg-shaped bath tub in the corner…