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  • Cityscape Picturesque pages from history
  • City life Truly Bohemian

A cobblestoned fairytale rich in culture and counterculture, Prague is an architectural medley of antique churches, brutalist relics and art nouveau facades.

The Bohemian pride in culture and fringe arts is transforming its warehouse districts, with new bars and galleries, clubs and restaurants – Prague’s post-Communist renaissance has given its gastronomic fortunes a fillip, too. At once frozen in time and on fast-forward, the new Czech way embraces clean-cut futurism and a louche Bohemian mien.

Do go/Don’t go

Winters can be freezing, summers scorching and busy – the best times are late spring and early autumn. If you don’t mind the cold, and periodic smog alerts, the city is lovely in snow.

Getting thereView map

  • Planes Václav Havel Airport is about 20 minutes from the city centre. Taxis are around CZK650 (about €22), but most hotels offer a free pick-up service if you phone ahead. Bus 199 goes to Dejvická station, which is on the metro.
  • Trains International trains arrive at the art nouveau Main Railway Station. The Metro system is extensive and easy to use; a three-day pass is CZK310.
  • Automobiles Driving isn’t easy, and parking is hellish: most areas are residents-only blue zones.
  • Taxis Definitely avoid hailing them on the street since many drivers try to get away with the 'scenic route' and not turning on the meter. Try AAA Radio Taxis on 2211 0 2211 or 14 0 14.