Villa Cisternino
Puglia, Italy
Best picnic spot
Drive out to the Gargano peninsula, which has its own mountain, Monte Calvo, and the scenic Forest Umbra (forest of shadows). Eat amid the maples, oaks and orchids in the shade of the forest. The nearby town of Monte Sant'Angelo has dramatic views of the bay below.
Best beaches
The Adriatic coast is 20 minutes away by car, and the Ionian coast is a 40-minute drive. There are plenty of dazzling beaches to choose from – try Villanova, Torre Santa Sabina or Marina di Pescoluse, which has shallow waters, a five-mile stretch of sand and shimmering turquoise waves. Pilone beach is just 10 minutes from Ostuni, equipped with sun loungers, showers and snack bars.
Best walks
Walk off the orecchiette in Itria Valley. Admire the trulli, vineyards, wild flowers and century-old olive trees as you ramble. Alternatively, head for one of the beaches and walk up an appetite for a fishy feast.
Shopping
Ostuni has a Luprano minimarket on the way to Martina Franca, 20km away at Viale Europa. Haggle with the locals and stock up on picnic provisions from the markets.
Activities
Perfect your putt at Acaya Golf Club, 10km from Lecce (www.acayagolfclub.it/inglese.html). The course overlooks the nature reserve, and is a short drive from San Cataldo beach. Make a day trip to the Tremiti Islands – San Domino, San Nicola, Capraia, Cretaccio and Pianosa – which are part of the Gargano National Park in the north of Puglia. The bounty of coves and underwater caves in the archipelago’s waters make this a popular spot for diving. Buy your fresh pasta, pastries, fruit, veg and cheese from the markets between 8am and 1pm: Cisternino’s market is on Mondays, Ostuni’s is on Saturdays and Martina Franca’s is on Wednesdays. Ostuni, the ‘White Town’, is worth exploring for its historic architecture: admire the Cathedral, the Bishop’s Palace and palazzi.
Smith Tip
Wait until balmy 5pm to do your exploring, then dress to the nines and join the glamorous locals taking their passeggiata. Try one of the new pizzica evenings hosted at a nearby masseria on Tuesdays for an evening of Pugliese folk music, antipasti and food.
