Mr & Mrs Smith

Visit the Jardin Majorelle in Guéliz (www.jardinmajorelle.com), which was designed in the Twenties by French artist Jacques Majorelle, then restored by Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, a former resident of Marrakech. Rise early to avoid all the tourist buses; the Musée d'Art Islamique is also worth a peek, to see Majorelle's lithographs and the antique Berber pieces. Ben Youssef Medersa, in the medina, is a 14th-century Koranic school. It’s no longer in use, but is a beautiful building to visit, open 9am–6pm.

Do as the discerning expat insiders do and stock up on spices, food, fabrics, jewellery, lamps and other treasures in the shops closest to Le Nid des Cignones – prices are cheaper and quality is higher, compared to what you’ll find in the main square’s souks. You’ll also find great eats at Place des Ferblantiers nearby – it's an increasingly popular restaurant spot.