Mr & Mrs Smith

Wander into Norcia and admire the castellina, a fortress built in the 16th-century, the Gothic church of Sant’Agostino, and the main basilica, dedicated to St. Benedict. Pick up picnic supplies from the delis – cured ham, salty pecorino or mild cacciota cheese will stand you in good stead – and the bakery on the main drag sells moreish salt-encrusted rolls. Drive up the Piano Grande, famed for its Castelluccio lentils and summer carpets of wildflowers, and polish off your hamper in scenic surroundings. Count hang-gliders as you eat; the Mount Sibillini massif is a magnet for thrill seekers. If you start feeling envious, get your own adrenaline rush: pick from rafting, canyoning, paragliding, quad biking, cross-country skiing and Nordic walking.

Visit another Bianconi-owned property, Hotel Grotta Azzura, and try out its restaurant, Il Granaro del Monte, at Via Alfieri (+39 07 4381 7551). Expect heart and belly to be warmed by traditional Umbrian delicacies such as tagliolini al tartuffo, and cosy dining rooms, lit with open fires. If you crave some simple sustenance, such as a bowl of steaming lentil soup, eat at Taverna Castelluccio, at Via Dietro la Torre 8 (+39 07 4382 1158). Bar del Ponte at Via Borgo (+39 07 4361 253) has the best home-made ice-cream in town – the nocciola (hazelnut) is divine. Unearth hidden treasure with a trip to Ristorante Apollinare at Via Santa Agata, Spoleto (+39 07 4322 3256). This sublime restaurant is squirreled away below the Aurora Hotel. It has a tiny outside terrace in the summer, an irreverent approach to Umbrian cooking, and a knack of attracting celebrities in town for the Two Worlds Festival, an annual celebration of music, dance and drama.

Head to Bar del Ponte on Via Borgo in Scheggino (+39 0743 61253) for aperitivi beside the river, or mouthwatering ice-cream (Smith loves the hazelnut).