Mr & Mrs Smith

Madada Mogador was a lovely place to stay for a bit of luxury and relaxation. Sure it doesn't look quite as sparkly as in the photos but it is still amazing and the service from the staff was wonderful. They had enough restaurant recommendations to keep you going for a fortnight - both Moroccan and other cuisine.

The first tip though is to have lunch by the port from one of the fish grills. There are maybe 15 of them just set up grilling the fresh catch from the day with some simple bread and salad. There are guide prices but here you bargain for your lunch! It isn't glamorous or posh but it will be the best and freshest fish you've ever eaten and it's good fun to barter for your food! We also enjoyed After 5 which is right below the hotel, great decor, good wine and lovely food. They make the most of the fresh fish available and have other good french dishes on the menu. The daily specials are definitely what came into the port that day – a true special.

If you want a simple Italian meal then Sylvestro is the place to go. A family run Italian restaurant that cooks everything fresh in an open kitchen. The portion sizes are huge but it is good family Italian cooking. I think the linguine Fruits De Mer was the best seafood pasta I have ever eaten. Fantastic service and the cheapest meal we had the whole holiday!

Having just retuned from a great stay at Madada Mogador, I feel that I have to share the secrets of Essaouira! Madada Mogador was great, a little weather-beaten since the photos were taken, but a wonderful base all the same. The owners' recommendations for dinner were right on the ball – they are French and like their food!

Normally I like to wander around a new place and see what I like the look of. If you were to do that in Essaouira you may be a little disappointed. On the surface, there are lots of pizzeria/bog-standard seafood/tourist fare, but after being pointed in the right direction by our French foodies, we were being constantly delighted by hidden gems!

Le Patio was our first suprise, tucked down a little alleyway in the throng of all manner of souvenirs. We pulled the velvet curtain back in the entrance to be confonted by a vision of dark cosy corners and candles ablaze. This I did not expect: Marrakech, yes, but sleepy little Essaouira? The menu was exceptional; if you want seafood you want Le Patio, that's all there is to say! Taros was also a pleasant surprise, on a rooftop overlooking the main square. Amazing fish dishes, tangines and desserts to die for! The roof terrace was fabulous for lunch and people watching but the dining room for dinner  was an altogether more intimate affair, with daily specials adding to an already-great menu. It's the perfect excuse to make it for both lunch and dinner!

And finally, there's the Madada Mogador resturant: fabulous French with a Morrocan twist. So good we went twice! All this leaves me with great memories and a few pounds to lose…