Mr & Mrs Smith

Le Vieux Four on Bas de Crillon is the village’s other option for dinner, and a fine, informal one it is, too, with a terrace (+33 (0)4 90 12 81 39). Chalet Reynard, near the summit of the Mont Ventoux, is an Alpine-style pitstop, popular with view-seekers and Lycra-clad cyclopaths (+33 (0)4 90 61 84 55). Loved by locals, with welcoming service, Le Clos du Pâtre in Caromb specialises in robust rustic fare, featuring lots of goat’s cheese, olives and herbs (+33 (0)4 90 62 38 49; www.leclosdupatre.com). On market day in Carpentras, the best staging posts are Le Rich on Place 25 Août (+33 (0)4 90 63 11 61), and the bars on Place Charles de Gaulle, near the cathedral. Bistrot de l’Industrie on Quai de la Charité in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (+33 (0)4 90 38 00 40) is recommended on the riverside for a cold beer and a pizza on market day. Or, for a special occasion, book a table in the garden of Le Jardin du Quai on Avenue Julien Guigue (+33 (0)4 90 20 14 98).

Ask the sommelier to organise a wine-tasting tour to suit your palate: elegant (at a Châteauneuf-du- Pape winery, perhaps) or earthy (with a local garagiste). In October, you can attend a mini vendange at Château Pesquié in Mormoiron (www.chateauupesquie.com), hosted by Frédéric Chaudière, who will show you (hands-on) what grapes to harvest and when, and explain the fermentation and blending process, with an all-important tasting analysis.