Mr & Mrs Smith

Diamant Hotel Sydney is brilliantly positioned for testing out the Kings Cross area’s growing dining scene. Head to the lovely sandstone building that houses Forbes and Burton at 252 Forbes Street (+61 (0)2 9356 8788) and pick from an innovative, regularly changing French menu. To savour Modern Thai dishes in stylish surroundings, sit down at the communal banquette table that runs the lengthy of Jimmy Liks, 186–188 Victoria Street, (+61 (0)2 8354 1400). Don’t miss the wagyu beef or the salt-and-pepper squid.

A Sydney institution thanks to its divine scrambled eggs and stomach-stretching all-day breakfasts, Bills at 433 Liverpool Street (+61 (0)2 9360 9631) is a stylish little café in a leafy side-street run by one of Australia’s most respected food writers. Expect models, mums, and media darlings by the latte-load. Bar Coluzzi on 322 Victoria Street (+61 (0)2 9380 5420) does excellent toasted open sandwiches, best enjoyed on the pavement, perched on one of the little wooden chairs.

Between May and early December, humpback whales gather around the Sydney coast – arrange an oceanic twitching trip with Whale Watching Sydney (www.whalewatchingsydney.com); sightings guaranteed. If you prefer eating sealife to ogling it, the Sydney Seafood School (www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au) can teach you more than throwing shrimp on barbies. For an insight into the city’s quirky history, ghosts, and, er, bondage parlours, you can take a guided Cadillac hearse trip with Destiny Tours (call Allan, ‘the hearse whisperer’: +61 (0)2 9943 0167).