Mr & Mrs Smith

If you’re interested enough in your boots to wonder where the leather came from, ask the hotel to arrange a tannery trip – but bear in mind these are only for the stout of heart and resilient of nose. The hotel can also arrange city tours, cooking demonstrations, wine tastings and classes in henna painting. If you’re after a particular item of Moroccan craftwork and don’t fancy taking your chances in the souks, Palais Amani can put you in touch with talented and trustworthy craftsmen. 75km outside Fez, the Roman ruins at Volubilis are the best preserved in North Africa, and boast some amazing mosaics. The Atlas Mountains offer inspiring hiking trails and unbeatable views across the desert back to Fez, as well as the opportunity to visit a rural mountain village or two.

Les Trois Sources in the new town on Route d'Immouzer (+212 (0)35 606 532), has become a favourite among in-the-know Fez residents (‘Fezidents’?) for its fine French fare, and among visitors for the fact it’ll pick you up from your hotel if you ring ahead. There’s a pool there, too. Make sure you have foodie Gail Leonard (+212 (0) 655 324082) on speed dial. She can take you on a tasting tour of Moroccan cuisine, organise trips to olive-oil presses, arrange extravagant picnics, and more.

In an old colonial house in the heart of the medina, Fez et Gestes (+212 (0)53 563 8532; www.fes-et-gestes.ma) is a teahouse, art gallery and live music venue run by a charming French owner. The gardens are perfect for lunch.

Don’t expect much in the way of cocktail-fuelled nocturnal thrills – Fez is an Islamic city, so if you want a tipple after hours, rely on the riad rooftops, where you can get all the beers, wines and spirits you fancy.