The Siam

One of the most essential aspects of design is its ability to transport you, to alter perception and to help give context to human experiences. At last the urban retreat – once considered an oxymoron – has been transformed into a delightful reality. Mr Smith and I are devout fans of mini spa breaks and we appreciate every aspect of design that transitions you from hectic city life into a respite from the modern world. The Siam takes this to an entirely new level – and how.

Bangkok hotels tend to be sombre skyscrapers, so imagine our excitement when we discover this boutique beauty. From the instant you arrive, and you’re greeted by your private butler, the extraordinary happens. As you climb the stairs and enter the foyer, there’s a hint of the magic to come. Normally after a long flight Mr Smith and I are beating hotel staff away from our luggage and wishing that the registration process and swiping of credit cards could be more streamlined so that we can just get our belongings and ourselves to our room to unpack and decompress. This time we’re begging the butler to slow down as he whisks us past reception directly to our suite to pop the first bottle of chilled bubbly – it’s a lesson in Thai grace, charm and ease. Exploring the public areas to have piqued our curiosity will have to wait…

We’re in a light-filled Riverview Suite – what an off-the-charts pleasure. Next time we’ll try one of the separate pool villas – a first for Bangkok. Set right on the Chao Phraya River in the exclusive royal Dusit district, this intimate 39-room retreat blends a coolly contemporary low-rise building with heritage Jim Thompson teak houses. We spend our working week in hotels that are beautifully designed and well appointed, but the Siam is unexpected for its individual style. From the generous layout to the subtle detailing and meticulously curated artwork you sense that this room is unlike any other and the owners – Thai pop star Krissada Clapp and his family of ‘musical hoteliers’–have laboured with architect Bill Bensley to create a truly personalised experience for every guest. We don’t want to spoil too much of the surprise.

After a bottle of champagne and a lost hour mesmerised by the river view and the artwork/photography, we venture out. Another hour evaporates before we reach the pool – about 400 metres from the room. By now you’re starting to understand that our 48-hour Bangkok adventure is transitioning into a cultural odyssey. The reason? The Sukosol Clapp family avidly collects artifacts and antiques. The main atrium of the building is surrounded by an exquisitely housed collection of Han dynasty pottery, regional Thai artifacts and 18^th- and 19^th-century curios. This may sound a little random but the fascinating collection is elegantly edited and the hotel feels more like a private gallery or museum.

Eventually we reach the Hollywood Hills-esque swimming pool feeling culturally elevated and inspired. Nestled on the riverbank and surrounded by perfect gardens, the immaculately maintained leisure area continues a monochromatic theme. I suggest a swim before breakfast and that you try kickboxing in one of the best-equipped hotel gyms I’ve seen – how many places offer a proper Muay Thai boxing ring? Late afternoon and we head to the Opium Spa to find ourselves in a different tranquility. The signature Thai massage soothes away jetlag and muscle aches – I recommend stocking up on the Australian Sodashi products too.

As the sun goes down we find ourselves on the Siam’s own wharf floating over the river, a perfect gin and tonic in hand; this vibrant city is starting to take on its buzzing nighttime persona. We’re about to have a quiet dinner at Chon Thai Restaurant when the manager suggests we take the hotel’s Cipriani-style private launch, crack open a bottle of something moreish and enjoy a cruise along the bustling river. Best suggestion from a GM ever. If, like us, you’re lucky enough to be the only guests in the boat too, this is a seriously stunning way to see the city. Few rivers are as animated and dynamic as Bangkok’s. The option to hop off along the riverbank is a bonus – but we decide to stay on board – it’s been a long week and we feel no guilt relaxing. Historical palaces, temples, contemporary monoliths create a contrasting architectural landscape – what a backdrop. Mr Smith and I fall asleep to the gentle rock of the boat. Was it the tranquil evening on the waterway, getting our Zen on at the Opium Spa or the wine? You’ll have to test it yourself to find out.

After our enchanting river nap we plump for in-room dining – this can be a way to ruin a good hotel evening, but not at the Siam… delicious and romantic. Skip now to day two. Next up: the impressive breakfast at Chon Thai, the restaurant we’d missed out on the night before. Don’t you dare think it’ll be a buffet – here there’s a menu of healthy and decadent dishes. Then another lazy day ensues. Mr Smith spends the morning discovering art collections located in other parts of the hotel while I peruse design and history books in the library and screening room. Slight guilt from our lethargy sets in – so after a languid lunch poolside we leave the property for a stroll around the historic Dusit neighbourhood.

Café Cha lures us back to indulge in cakes and pastries and the famous in-house Elephant Dung coffee. (Note to all: the complimentary kickboxing class in the morning means you don’t need to count calories later.) Adjacent to the café and lobby is Curio, which sells everything from antique tribal jewellery to fashion – and the proceeds from some of the gift-shop goods support the indigenous Thai elephants. The hotel has its own elephant polo team and the general manager is an avid player.

Hats off to the Sukosol Clapp family, Mr Bill Bensley and the Siam team for so, so much – but in particular we commend their respect and understanding of Thai culture, excellent design and slick service. Such admirable vision ensures truly unique experiences await you.