Riad Vivre

Worth getting out of bed for

Every visitor to Marrakech should experience the carnival atmosphere of Djemaa El Fna at least once. The sprawling main square is a sensory explosion of sounds, smells and sights. Expect to see belly dancers, snake charmers and fire breathers, while heady aromas of spice and incense drift (often visibly) on the breeze and market traders vie to make themselves heard over booming calls to prayer.

Escape into the surrounding souks where haggling is practically an olympic sport. Here, in narrow lanes jam-packed with spices, Berber rugs, sparkling jewels and a gazillion other trinkets, even the coolest customer is seduced by the salesmanship (and afternoon heat), and exits triumphantly brandishing fistfuls of saffron and brightly coloured scarves.

Marrakech has some fine gardens for post-souk decompression. Among them, cacti-crammed Jardin Majorelle surrounds an eye-popping electric-blue villa that was once home to Yves Saint Laurent. Oasis-like water features dot these lush gardens, which are home to towering palms, prickly pears and other showstopping succulents. Tickets start from 120 dirhams for access to the garden only; combi tickets add one or both museums.

Local restaurants

A (theoretically) short stroll through the medina’s maze-like streets brings you to Le Jardin which – as the name suggests – is an enormous garden oasis hidden within the walls of a 16th-century building just off the main square. High, whitewashed walls surround green-tiled floors and a frenzy of foliage, while the food focus here is on traditional Moroccan favourites: think crispy falafel, waist-expanding tagines and perfect pistachio and apricot frangipane.

Stunning skyline scenery challenges the menu for top billing at La Terrasse des Épices, where views across terracotta Medina rooftops to the hazy Atlas Mountains beyond are almost enough to distract you from the Tanija Marrakchia, a clay-pot lamb dish spiced with saffron, ras el hanout, ginger and cumin, that’s slow-cooked for several hours beneath hot ashes.

Local cafés

Beat a retreat from the frenzy of the souks and make for Café des Épices. This low-key Marrakech mainstay is an oasis of ochre that feels far from the madding crowd. Pause for a refreshing fruit juice or verbena with views over the city’s rooftops.

The renovated palace of Dar El Bacha is a riot of intricate mosaics and carved cedarwood set around a courtyard that’s dotted with fountains and orange trees. Now home to the Musée des Confluences, the palace also houses Bacha Coffee, an upmarket café with a 23-page menu of not inexpensive 100 per cent arabica coffees. Go for the afternoon tea and stay for the ridiculously opulent decor, all checkerboard tiled floors, luxurious patterned wallpapers and huge arched doorways.

Local bars

There is no better place in Marrakech to enjoy a cocktail or four than in a rooftop bar watching the sun set over the medina. Kabana teams all this with candles, lanterns, soft latin music and a huge range of travel-themed cocktails. Try the Kopakabana Saffron, with Brazilian cachaça rum, saffron, lemon and sugar, or brave the rather more sinister sounding Clutch Hand from Little Italy, with whisky and martini. And good luck with the stairs after a couple of those.