Essaouira, Morocco

Dar Maya

Rates from (inc tax)$95.00

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (21EUR), via, using today’s exchange rate.


Pale and interesting


Backstreet poise

Your luxury riad home-from-home awaits by the beach in Essaouira: Dar Maya was created by a runaway Englishman who became enamoured of coastal Morcco while on vacation… once you’ve taken a dip in the rooftop hot tub and been given a thorough rubdown in the traditional hammam, you won’t want to go home, either…

Smith Extra

Get this when you book through us:

A bottle of wine, or a pair of leather babouche slippers


Photos Riad Dar Maya hotel – Essaouira – Morocco

Need to know


Five, including three suites.


11am, but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, noon.


Double rooms from $95.00 (€87), excluding tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €3.00 per person per night on check-out.

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR96.00), via, using today’s exchange rate.

More details

Rates usually include Continental and cooked breakfast.


Head to the hammam for a traditional rub-down, or book a couple’s massage or facial in your room.

At the hotel

Hammam, library, concierge, free WiFi throughout. In rooms: free WiFi.

Our favourite rooms

Tignna gets plenty of light and is decorated in cool grey… but the open fireplace ensures you don’t get too cool. It has its own small balcony, and the two-person bath tub in the ensuite bathroom looks particularly inviting when candlelit.


Sit back and relax in the hot tub on the rooftop terrace.

Packing tips

Bring a light scarf – it’ll prove practical as well as stylish, as Essaouira gets very windy.


The riad isn’t wheelchair accessible.


This is more of a grown-up stay.

Food and Drink

Photos Riad Dar Maya hotel – Essaouira – Morocco

Top Table

Dine up on the roof terrace in good weather, or indoors in the small dining room if it’s chilly.

Dress Code

Everything here is simple and elegant, so fill your case with sleek, unfussy pieces.

Hotel restaurant

The tiny restaurant is all chic shades of chocolate, and there’s a courtyard with a tranquil water wall; the chef serves up pleasing contemporary Moroccan cuisine, like fried calamari from the port, and pastry parcels stuffed with beef or shrimp.

Hotel bar

Sip your drip on the modern rooftop terrace, on one of the loungers that flank the hot tub.

Last orders

Breakfast starts at 8.30am and is served as long as you like. This is your riad home-from-home, and when you eat is entirely up to you.

Room service

Order a choice of hot and cold snacks and drinks to your room between 11am and midnight.


Photos Riad Dar Maya hotel – Essaouira – Morocco
Dar Maya
33 rue Oujda


Touchdown at Essaouira’s Mogador Airport (, which is 20km away from the riad; it’s served by regular flights from Paris. Or, land at Marrakech Menara Airport (, 180km away, which sees regular arrivals from throughout Europe, including London Gatwick and Heathrow.


If you’re adventurous enough to try driving in Morocco, there’s a car park a five-minute walk from the hotel that costs €2 a day.

Worth getting out of bed for

Essaouira, on the Atlantic coast, is largely a laid-back beach city where hanging out on the sand or eating your fill of fresh seafood are order of the day. Sandy Essaouira beach is an easy walk from the hotel, and offers plenty of watersports as well as camel and horse rides.

Explore Essaouira’s rivers and beaches on a quad bike with Palma Quad,, or head out of town on camelback with Zouina Cheval in the village of Diabet, For an eco-conscious Argan grove tour, try Ecotourism et Randonées; trips culminate in a traditional Moroccan tea (

If you're a golfer, you're in luck: Mogador Golf Course (+212 (0)5 24 47 94 00) is ranked among the world’s top 20 most exciting courses, though the 18-hole Gary Player-designed golf course has Atlantic views good enough to distract you from your game… If cooking's more your thing, learn from the best at L’Atelier Madada, the top spot to discover the delights of Moroccan cooking (

Local restaurants

At Hôtel Océan Vagabond, the bar and restaurant have their own little swimming pool and garden, as well as a lounge with a fireplace (Boulevard Lalla Aicha; +212 (0)5 24 47 92 20. The menu at relaxed, romantic Elizir is an interesting mix of Moroccan and Italian cuisines; the service and ambience are top-notch (Rue Agadir; +212 (0)5 24 47 21 03).

La Table by Madada is a chic, romantic restaurant tucked away in the old medina; the food is highly rated by locals (Rue Youssef El Fassi; +212 (0)5 24 47 21 06). Caravane Café is a lively medina spot with quirky decor (Rue du Qadi Ayad; +212 (0)5 24 78 31 11). Les Jardins de Villa Maroc is 10km out of town but you can laze by the pool at its secluded stone house, which was until recently a private residence (Route Essaouira-Marrakech, Essaouira; +212 (0) 24 47 67 47).

Local bars

Watch the sunset from the terrace at seafood restaurant Il Mare, overlooking the cannon-bedecked battlements, then stay for the music: it’s a popular nightclub, too (Rue Yamen Scala; +212 (0)5 24 47 64 17). Taros is rumoured to be Essaouira’s best drinking den. The medina hotspot has spectacular views from its terrace, DJs and live music and top-class cocktails. It serves food, too (Place Moulay Hassan; +212 (0)5 24 47 64 07).


Photos Riad Dar Maya hotel – Essaouira – Morocco

Anonymous review

My personal Marrakech-to-Essaouira playlist probably wouldn’t have included German power ballad ‘Wind of Change’ by Scorpions but it was our sharp-suited driver’s CD, and he didn’t speak English so we went with it. By the time the unplugged recording of Hotel California (the audience was really loving that guitar solo) started up for the third time, my California boy was shaking with stifled hysteria and I attempted to speak French for the first time in over a decade. (Our driver, it turned out, was a delight.) Three hours, several Bon Jovi songs, and one shining-sea-as-our-backdrop photoshoot later, we arrived at Essaouira’s shoreline. We were handed over to a silent gent with a cart who whisked us through the gate in the medina wall and led us to Dar Maya.

A discreet door down one of the medina’s myriad alleys was opened by a supremely cheerful fellow who tipped our cart man when we didn’t have change and lugged our luggage to our minimalist room – all calming pale colours, framed YSL postcards and candlelit alcoves. The contemporary style’s quite the antidote to the dazzlingly hectic streets outside. I ran around stroking our room’s sleek tadelakt for a while (so smooth! so cool!) then headed further up… Dar Maya’s a lovely place from head to toe, but my goodness that rooftop’s spectacular if you’re into spying into other people’s buildings and watching the waves a block away.

We wandered down to dinner and loitered in the cool courtyard before being ushered in to the tiny dining room for our tagines. Now, by the end of our honeymoon we’d be tagined out as probably often occurs on first forays into Morocco – but this was our very first North African night, and our cinnamon-y slow-cooked lamb and lemony chicken, washed down with a local rosé, were as delicious as you could dream of after a day of travelling.

After a night of serene slumber – except for when some idiot tried to put her cameras in the in-room safe and set off the alarm (sorry, fellow guests) – breakfast was a filling array of Moroccan pancakes with honey and fruit and a ‘very good’ omelette for Mr Smith. It was served by a smiley lady I later spied making the bed in the suite across the courtyard from our room (we gave each other a cheery wave through the window).

Venturing out we politely declined an offer from a friendly marijuana-selling man who was a reminder of Hendrix’s heyday here in 1969. The medina had seemed labyrinthine on arrival the night before, but in the morning light, and armed with Google Maps, we felt more confident and found our way to the old ramparts in under a minute. It was there that we learnt two facts about Essaouira: you won’t love it if you don’t like seagulls, and if you wear a short skirt – hello, fellow European tourist letting the side down – it’ll be blown up around your waist repeatedly. Luckily we harbour no Tippi Hedren-worthy fears and we were relatively sensibly attired… but that wind also keeps temperatures down, and we still managed to get sunburnt immediately. Amateurs.

We retreated back to Dar Maya to hide our hot-pink shame, Mr Smith in the petite hot tub on the roof, sipping mint tea, and me enveloped in near darkness in the hotel’s jewel-box of a hammam, having hot water thrown over my head and attempting to engage my new best friend in half-French-half-English chat between buckets. I have an uncontrollable urge to take sharp intakes of breath whenever water hits me the face, but there’s still something undeniably decadent about being part-drowned by a slightly brutal trilinguist while sitting in a dark room wearing just your knickers. The in-room massage that followed was deeply relaxing.

After that, staggering out in nothing but my robe and lots of massage oil to seek Mr Smith, I ran straight into Gareth, the bronzed Brit who runs the place (you can often find his utterly adorable pups, Eddy and Nini, lounging around downstairs, coolly ignoring cooing guests). Politely pretending not to notice that I was a deliriously blissed-out neon-pink-faced wreck – perhaps that’s standard for new arrivals in Essaouira? – he was delighted to hear we were enjoying our stay.

That evening, covered in aloe vera, we ventured out to La Table by Madada for our first dinner out, a five-minute stroll away in the medina. The food was delicious – pigeon pastilla’s traditional here, but I plumped for the fancier lobster version of the filo-pastried pie – and the drinks perfect, and our slightly surreal soundtrack was a stool-perched pair of guitar-bearing chaps playing classic-rock covers.

The next morning we stopped at top drinking den Taros, just outside the medina walls, after another morning session of dodging fearless seagulls, shopping for intricately carved wooden boxes and pretending to be in Game of Thrones (filmed right here!) We’d intended a flying visit, but Mr Smith thought so highly of his Bloody Mary that we ordered another, and another, and eventually just stayed for lunch. We were sitting on their elegant blue-and-white terrace by the sea sipping drinks and listening to the call to prayer mingling with French gossip when we decided that one honeymoon is not enough, and we’ll have to come back.

After rides on a blue-eyed-camel with charming French children and a pair of glorious horses, it came time for us to leave Essaouira. This time, an entirely different hotel had booked us an entirely different driver to take us back to Marrakech for the next stage of our trip. Our entirely different driver was, of course, blasting the exact same CD of soft-rock power ballads. On repeat. For four hours. Oh, how we missed the serenity of Dar Maya…

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith Hotel with us, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Dar Maya’s Guestbook below.

We loved

Everything! Dar Maya was paradise! Best design decor. Great rooms - super chic comfy loved common areas. Flexible breakfast was delish and accomodating. Gareth - owner- was fab with welcome and hospitality recommendations. Roof top jacuzzi was awesome we loved it all! Perfect fun relaxing escape. HIGH recommendations, kudos. We loved the cooking school - La Table Madada- recommended by Dar Maya. Taros Cafe for yum seafood lunch and late night dancing. Caravan Art Cafe for dinner Umia for best French food bar none. Bebe owner was a hoot and the food was divine. Loved shopping in concept stores and enjoying seafood at port.

Don’t expect

Can't think of one thing not to expect - perfection!


Stayed on 30 Aug 2016

We loved

The beautiful décor, the oasis of calm, the location, the rooftop, Gareth - the owner, the luxurious bed, the helpfulness of everyone who works there. Recommend Umia Restaurant and Le Table at Madada. 

Don’t expect



Stayed on 12 Aug 2016

We loved

The great personable help, advice, and kindness from Gareth the owner. The dogs stole our hearts and the rooms stole our weariness as we have never slept so well. The décor and design of the Dar was inspired and the rooftop was a great place to look over the Atlantic Ocean and Essaouira. We loved the location down the quirky little side path, yet close enough to get to the restaurants and seaside. Caravan Café with great food, and entertainment inc. Gnaua musicians, fire dancer, and even a magician! Taros Restaurant for sunsets and live music and ponchos. Beach and Friends Beach café about a 30 minute leisurely walk along the beach. Do your shopping in Essauoira not Marrakech for a lot less hassle.

Don’t expect

A pool.


Stayed on 24 May 2016

We loved

The location in the Medina and the professional and courteous service provided by Gareth and his staff. Recommend Taros rooftop bar for sundowners and live music; One Up for excellent food; Palma Quad for an excellent quad bike experience on the beach dunes

Don’t expect

A lift!


Stayed on 9 Apr 2016

We loved

The position in the heart of the Medina, the fabulous staff and the magnificent bedrooms. 10/10

Don’t expect

Any late night life


Stayed on 15 Mar 2016

We loved

The rooms. The service. Gareth and his team. All we had to do was ask and it was done!

Don’t expect

Anything negative to report.


Stayed on 26 Jan 2016

We loved

The room and amazing bathroom with marble sunken bath.

Don’t expect

Meals apart from breakfast to be included.


Stayed on 27 Dec 2015

We loved

The design, the calm, the friendly service, the roof top terrace, the candlelights, huge rooms, the tadelakt bathrooms, the sitting corner, the patio, the jaccuzi, the breakfast, the friendly owner and personnel.

Don’t expect

high speed internet


Stayed on 24 Nov 2015

We loved

The wonderful hospitality of Gareth and the team at Dar Maya. Nothing was too much trouble and Gareth was incredibly helpful with lots of fab local suggestions, arranging and re-arranging taxis, lending us the internet etc. It really felt like we had discovered something special in staying at Dar Maya.

Don’t expect

To lie on the beach in a bikini! Apart from not being culturally appropriate the beach is full of camels and the sea was incredibly rough when we were there, great for watching kite surfers but not for swimming!


Stayed on 16 Sep 2015

We loved

The rooms! The Riad is beautifully decorated and the bathroom in our room was of a decent size for 2.

Don’t expect

A plunge pool on the terrace! The terrace is now decking with a jacuzzi which was lovely but not what we had hoped for, especially in July!


Stayed on 12 Jul 2015

We loved

Gareth (the owner) and his staff - very professional and attentive - nothing was too much trouble. The high standards of the Riad - the bedrooms and bathrooms were luxurious. The rooftop jacuzzi hot tub and lounging area was just what was needed after a busy morning in the market/souks. Breakfast was great - omelettes amazing. Such a calm oasis behind the front door in such a buzzing, noisy medina.

Don’t expect

TV's in the room - it's so relaxing without one! Unfortunately, although they took our shoe sizes for the babouche slippers (free when booking with Mr and Mrs Smith) we never received them :(


Stayed on 15 Jun 2015

We loved

What a find! The riad is gorgeous - it has comfy beds, amazing breakfasts and lovely staff. We were on our honeymoon and we couldn't have asked for a better place to stay. The rooftop jacuzzi is perfect as well :) Gareth the owner is so helpful and has lots of great recommendations for amazing places to eat and things to do. We had an amazing time and hope to return soon!

Don’t expect

To want to go home!


Stayed on 12 Jun 2015

We loved

Chic modern design. Everything in room and bathroom thought through - even to the underfloor heating in bathroom. Perfect. Lovely staff.

Don’t expect

The only minor suggestion would be a folding stand in the bedroom for suitcases.


Stayed on 25 Jan 2015