Mr & Mrs Smith

Go local with a wander through the pretty grounds of Wat Bo, the most important pagoda in the Siem Reap area. Some of the best Buddhist frescoes from the 19th century adorn the ceilings of this charming place and there is a small collection of Angkorian pottery, regalia and weaponry from the height of the Khmer empire. Seek out some monks to learn a bit about the Buddhist way of life, as several of the ‘DJ monks’ on Wat Bo Radio can speak English. 

For fine French dining, look no further than the art-deco inspired Le Malraux (+855 (0)63 966 041; Sivutha Street). The menu includes a succulent salmon tartare, as well as Armagnac to put hairs on your chest. Taking tapas style to Khmer cuisine is AHA (+855 (0)63 965 501; The Alley), part of the Hôtel de la Paix empire. If you have a taste for adventure, try the signature dish: green mango and dried snake salad. The name Samot (+855 (0)63 966 212; Sivutha Street) is Khmer for ‘sea’, and owner/chef Patrick Guerry brings his French influence to the catch of the day.

Continuing the minimalist design theme perfected by Viroth’s, Nest (+855 (0)17 925 181; Sivutha Street) is a garden bar with soaring sail-like canopies and snug rattan day-beds. The cocktail list is worthy of a thorough investigation. A newer addition to the Siem Reap scene is Miss Wong (+855 (0)92 428 332; The Lane), a cosy little spot inspired by 1920s Shanghai. The cocktails, especially the ones using fresh tropical fruit and the bar’s home-made vodka infusions, are divine.

Stroll down to the Old Market and into Joe-To-Go (+855 (0)63 969 050; Old Market area), a small café brewing up gourmet coffees and creative caffeine fixes. All profits go towards supporting a school for disadvantaged Cambodian children.

January–February Chinese New Year (Tet to our Vietnamese friends) heralds the second new year of three in Cambodia. Some businesses shut up shop (although most can’t resist the chance to make money) and you'll see dragon dances around town. Mid-April Khmer New Year (or Chaul Chnam Khmer) is the big one. Three days of celebrations include lots of water splashing and talc throwing, although it’s more subdued than the equivalent festivities in neighbouring Thailand. Avoid Angkor unless you like sharing it with one million visitors on their very own Khmer version of the Hajj. October–November Bon Om Tuk is the Water Festival celebrating King Jayavarman VII’s victory over the upstart Chams (formerly of Champa, a kingdom that is now part of modern-day Vietnam). The Siem Reap River hosts frenetic long-boat races. The whole town is heaving at the hinges; by night the revellers sleep where they fall, so mind your step.