Mr & Mrs Smith

Visit Sforzesco Castle (+39 02 8846 3700; milanocastello.it), a leisurely 15-minute stroll from the hotel; there’s a museum of ancient art on the ground floor of the Corte Ducale, a stash of antique furnishings, and a selection of musical instruments on the first and second floors of the rocchetta (little fort).

Modern, elegant Cracco on Via Victor Hugo is where chef Carlo Cracco brings Milanese food into the 21st century – and has earned it two Michelin stars for his trouble (+39 02 87 6774; www.ristorantecracco.it; closed Sunday). Dedicated to Verdi (and with all the operatic decor that entails)  Don Carlos on Via Manzoni is another Michelin-garlanded eatery serving up beautiful-looking dishes – shame about the price tag (+39 02 7231 4604; www.ristorantedoncarlos.it). Sparkling-white Chatulle on Via Piero della Francesca (+39 02 342008) serves imaginative Italian cuisine in sophisticated surroundings. Locals are justly proud of Antica Trattoria della Pesa on Viale Pasubio (+39 02 655 5741; www.anticatrattoriadellapesa.com). Go there to sample Milanese favourites – risotto, plate-sized breaded veal and osso bucco with gremolata. Santani on Via San Marco (+39 02 655 5587; www.santini-restaurant.com) serves traditional, but not cheap, Italian cuisine to a cosmopolitan crowd. La Libera on Via Palermo (+39 02 805 3603; www.ristorantelaliberamilano.com) is an unassuming little restaurant (it calls itself a beer cellar plus kitchen) with dark wood decor and accomplished comfort cooking. Try the mustardy veal kidneys or the excellent seafood. Chandelier on Via Broggi (+39 02 2024 0458) is a place you’ll either love or hate,with red-velvet decor, chandeliers, crucifix-covered drapes and dressed-up mannequins; the food comes second but is tasty. Claudio Sadler prepares seafood with a nouvelle approach at Sadler on Via Troilo (+39 2 5810 4451). Giulio Pane e Ojo on Via Muratori (+39 02 545 6189; www.giuliopaneojo.com), is a low-key option for good Roman cuisine. Nobu on Via Croce Rossa (+39 2 7231 8645; www.noburestaurants.com) does Japanese-Peruvian fusion like its global siblings, in a corner of the Armani mini-mall. Gioia 69 on Via Melchiorre Gioia (+39 2 667 10180) is a super-trendy combination of moodily magnificent restaurant and black-velvet lounge bar.

At aperitivo time, the Porta Ticinese area gets packed out; a few hours here is a quintessential Milanese experience. Stay up late for Bar Basso (+39 02 2940 0580) and its potent cocktails at 39 Via Plinio. Roialto on Via Piero della Francesca is 700 square metres of restaurant, cocktail bar and cigar bar, with a rooftop pool (+39 02 3493 6616; roialtogroup.it). Executive Lounge (aka the Fiat Open Lounge) on Via di Tocqueville is a candlelit Indonesian-style  bar with cushions and low wooden tables, open until 2am (+39 02 2900 2267; www.executivelounge.it). By the entrance to Parco Sempione on Via Luigi Camoens, Just Cavalli Café is as flamboyant and sexy as one of designer Roberto Cavalli’s clinging mini-dresses, all oriental fabrics and antelope furs, open until 2am (www.justcavallihollywood.it). 

Pasticceria Marchesi, on Via Santa Maria alla Porta, is renowned for its coffee and cake (+39 02 876 730; www.pasticceriamarchesi.it). Cova on Via Montenapoleone is famous for its rice pudding – stop here for post-shopping star-spotting (+39 02 7600 5599; www.pasticceriacova.it). 

Open until 4am, Il Gattopardo Café on Via Piero della Francesca is a former church, converted in 2001 (www.gattopardocafe.it). Its imposing chandelier and marble columns give it a fantastic ambience. The all-white G Lounge on Via Larga plays some of the the best music on the Milenese night scene (www.glounge.it).

February Carnevale Ambrosiano, with floats and crowds processing to the Piazza del Duomo, ending on the first Saturday in Lent. Fashion week (autumn/ winter collections). April International Salone del Mobile, the giant furniture fair, recently renamed Milan Design Week to reflect its broad appeal. May Pittori sul Naviglio: an outdoor art show along Alzia Naviglio Grande canal. July/August Summer concerts, Thursday evenings in Wilson Park. September Fashion week (spring/summer). December Opera season starts.