Mr & Mrs Smith

Following a 15-minute drive along Wellington’s seafront from the airport, entering the Ohtel lobby rather felt like entering someone’s living room. From the second we left the bleakest of grey New Zealand days behind as we closed the door (or was it blown shut?), it was obvious we’d discovered someone’s passion project. The 10-room hotel, purpose built for the cliffside location, is warm, intimate and surprisingly colourful. Owner Alan Blundell, a former architectural draughtsman and designer, has exceptional taste – well, it’s certainly to my liking – combining Danish deluxe, 1960s chic and sheer comfort. The website has a wealth of background information on the pieces Alan has collected, but it isn’t until you’re in situ that you get the full impact of how well these fine examples of retro design have been incorporated into each thoughtfully decorated room. Plus, they’re not merely ornamental – they invite you to use and enjoy them. Considered choices extend through furniture to clocks, fabrics, wallpapers and a really impressive range of ‘Oh wow, my Aunty Val had one of those’ 1950s and 60s crockery. Alan is also committed to highlighting the work of some of New Zealand’s leading contemporary textile and visual artists. Dig those velvety felted blankets!

 

Having found somewhere that so embodies my perfect designer scheme, it’s hard to contemplate leaving Ohtel, but given its position, right in the heart of Wellington’s Oriental Bay precinct, heading out is a must. Particularly since our New Zealand odyssey includes a small child whose attention can’t be captured for long by an Eames chair or Rörstand crockery. It’s just a walk to everything the area has to offer: the beach, restaurants, galleries, shops, the theatre and the impressive Te Papa Tongarewa (or Museum of New Zealand to you Europeans).

 

To satisfy Junior Smith’s cultural needs, we have set aside day one in Wellington to exploring Te Papa. Offering a rich breadth of cultural and natural history information using an incredible variety of displays and a number of terrific short films, it soon becomes obvious to Mrs Smith and myself that this isn’t a kids-only zone. Although there are a couple of eateries on site, at lunchtime we take the short, windy walk back to the hotel. The lobby features a small bar and café, where we sip on delicious soup and a glass of local sauvignon blanc. It proved the perfect break to prepare us for an afternoon of giant squids, contemporary art and radical adventuring back at Te Papa.

 

On day two we were keen to explore more of the city’s dynamic urban culture, particularly its galleries and shops. Alan helpfully mapped out a brilliant walking route that was a rich guide to the city’s architecture, its restaurants with their varied multicultural influences, and some commercial and fine art galleries that include particularly good work by Maori and pãkehã (the Maori word for non-Maori New Zealanders) artists and designers. 

 

After walking for what seemed like hours, retreating to our second floor room at Ohtel seemed like a necessity. As we relaxed and dozed on and off, I reflected again on just how much I admire this hotel. The room was a great size and shape – perfect for a family of three – with views to the waterfront. The bathroom was something of a highlight too, with its generous proportions and Villeroy & Boch fittings. It’s open to the sleeping chamber, allowing for harbour-front gazing direct from the tub, which also means it is a tad low on privacy. As the sun started to set, the calm ambience was enhanced by a range of lighting options – an exquisite, freestanding, burnt orange lamp seemed to make everything glow. While the design features of the hotel come from the previous century, the entertainment options are state of the art. I listen to music almost constantly and the room had an excellent sound system with preloaded digital music library (Alan’s support of local artists continues here too, with New Zealand bands such as Fat Freddy’s Drop a feature). There’s also a large, flatscreen, wall-mounted TV and we happily spent one evening lounging in bed totally engrossed in the Maori television station – a great way to get your head into this amazingly rich indigenous culture.

 

Travelling with a child can be limiting, particularly when you want to venture out in the evenings. Thankfully, Alan has children of his own and we felt very comfortable asking him to recommend a babysitter for a few hours. He arranged for a charming couple – Junior Smith instantly relaxed with them – to sit with her for a few hours while we went out to enjoy the local cuisine.

 

Day three saw us reluctantly farewell the hip environs of Ohtel and venture off to explore New Zealand’s north island, which also meant that we just missed the hotel’s renowned Fondue Friday. Who said melted cheese and burnt orange were dead?