Mr & Mrs Smith

You can steer your way around the Languedoc-Roussillon area and its eateries with our all-seeing, all-knowing destination guide. But in the meantime, here's where to ease hunger pangs when in Uzès...

Les Trois Salons, 18 Rue du Docteur Blanchard (+33 4 66 37 19 31) offers a gourmand menu and has a stunning courtyard for alfresco dining. With white linen and parquet flooring, there are three rooms, each with differing decor and ambience; the middle room is panelled and has an open fire. Work your way through the collection in the wine cellar at L’Authentic in nearby mediaeval village Saint Siffret – Place de L’Ecole, 30700 Uzès, Saint Siffret (+33 4 66 22 60 09). Le Tracteur at Sanilhac-Sagries (+33 4 66 37 19 31) is also worth stopping by for a nibble.

Spoil yourself with a trip to L'Amphitryon (+33 (0)4 66 37 05 04), a sweet courtyard restaurant on the Place du Vieux Village in postcard-perfect Castillon du Gard, a 25-minute taxi ride away. Traditional-with-a-twist French dishes created with seasonal, local produce, plus fantastic regional wines and cheeses.

Also see: restaurants in Provence; and restaurants in Vaucluse.

Float around in a wicker basket propelled by fire; go hot-air ballooning. A one-hour flight across the region costs €220 a person, with Les Montgolfiers du Sud (+33 4 66 37 28 02; www.sudmontgolfiere.com). Paragliding is available at the nearby village of Seynes (+33 4 66 83 17 07; www.parapentesud.com). If the water’s warm, take a canoe out at Gardon (45 minutes away) – try ABC Euro Canoe (+33 4 66 22 45 33) or Kayak Vert (+33 4 66 22 80 76; www.canoe-france.com/gardon). 

If you need a (speedy) taxi anywhere, try local 24-hour taxi company Taxi Lamri (ask for Alain) on +33 (0)6 45 16 21 34. The Pont du Gard visitor centre gives a fascinating insight into the Roman occupation and buildings in the region; follow up with early supper at Anne-Sophie l’Huître et la Vigne (+33 (0)6 08 05 63 57), an absolutely charming tapas and oyster bar in a modest stone building set among the vines a 10-minute drive from the Pont du Gard on the route de St Hilaire.

For some brocante browsing in Uzès, the streets off Place aux Herbes are crowded with second-hand/antiques shops, artisan jewellers and craft studios; there's an excellent (but packed) market on Saturdays – and a quieter, food-only one on Wednesday mornings.

This is a great base for exploring the whole region, so day trips to Nîmes, the Camargue, Avignon, Orange or Arles are all options.