Mr & Mrs Smith

Succulent seafood is the speciality of Le Terminus, at 3 place de la Gare in Angoulême (+33 (0)5 45 95 27 13). Don’t be put off by the frill-free exterior and opposite-the-station locale – food and service are fantastic. For modern French cuisine cooked to gourmet standards, eat at Le Restaurant du Château at 15 place du Château (+33 (0)5 45 81 07 17). Charismatic chef Thierry Verat owns Michelin-starred La Ribaudière at Bourg-Charente (+33 (0)5 45 81 30 54). Though it’s known as one of the region’s best restaurants, the delicious French fare comes with very reasonable price tags.

The hotel can arrange horse-riding lessons for you, or recommend walks and VTT trails. Notch up some laps in the swimming pool, or read in the peaceful gardens. Follow the woodland path and admire the mediaeval bath, pumped with crystal clear water. Ask Max to guide you there, and ask lots of questions on the way – he knows all about the area and its history. Make an appointment to visit Les Jardins du Logis de Forge, a stunning private garden at Mouthiers sur Boeme (+33 (0)5 45 21 75 11). The house attached to the gardens dates back to the mediaeval times and there’s also an 18th-century hamlet and an old paper mill to admire. For more rustic charm with antiquity, head deep into the Champagne-Vigne vineyards to Le Maine Giraud (+33 (0)5 45 64 04 49), the former home of French poet Alfred de Vigny. The Durand family has owned the property since 1938, producing a steady stream of wines, pineau and Cognac. Since one in five Charente residents work in the Cognac region, and local alcohol is a (deserved) source of pride, go for a tasting session at one of the Cognac houses: La Maison Rémy Martin at 20 rue de la Société Vinicole (+33 (0)5 45 35 76 66) and La Maison Camus at 29 Rue Marguerite de Navarre (+33 (0)5 45 32 28 28) are particularly good.

January Angoulême hosts a festival of comic strips, with exhibitions, author Q&As and prize-giving (www.bdangouleme.com). July Les Franco Folies is La Rochelle’s festival of French music, usually held midmonth and involving large-scale gigs, as well as acoustic performances (www.francofolies.fr). August–September The month-long Grand Pavois, held at Port des Minimes at La Rochelle, is a boat show, first and foremost, with events around the exhibition including a ‘night sail’, a kind of son et lumière-meets-yachting spectacular. October In the north of the region, Pamproux hosts the annual Festival des Vendanges. Locals celebrate the grape harvest with exhibitions, plays, concerts, comedy, dance and, of course, a glass or two. November Enjoy tastings and cookery classes at Angoulême’s food festival, Les Gastronomades. Over three days, you’ll get to sample regional produce and see Charentais chefs showcasing local fare (www.gastronomades.fr).