Mr & Mrs Smith

For seafood-feasting on the quay surrounded by envy-inducing yachts and equally attractive clientele, dine at Joseph L’Escale at 9 Quai Jean Jaures (+33 4 94 97 00 63). White-linen-clad tables, vivid coral-coloured walls and furnishings, a leather bar and natural stone all add up to a stylish eatery and the enormous glass windows let you people-watch over fish soup and platters of jumbo shrimp. For a meal as warming as the French sun, indulge in a Moroccan feast at the popular Le Salama restaurant at 1 Rue des Tisserands (+33 4 94 97 59 62). Try the lamb tagine with prunes. Err on the size of moderation when ordering; portions are satisfyingly generous.

Three words for you: Ice, Sky and Martini. The hotel's three bars compensate for its out-of-town location; although the Kube shuttle bus can ferry you into St Tropez for bellinis with the boat crowd.

Flex your plastic and hit Place de la Garonne, to supplement your wardrobe with some of fashion’s most exclusive labels – Dior and Cavalli among them. For a more low-key spend, browse and barter in the markets at Place des Lices (Tuesday and Saturday mornings, 8am–2pm), where you’ll find traditional bed linens, cooking ingredients and gifts. Explore Pearl Beach (unleash your most fabulous swimwear) and body-swerve Nikki Beach, unless a champagne-soaked, topless-dance-inviting concept of a beach bar floats your boat. The azure bay of Saint Tropez flaunts a full CV of water sports – sample them for yourself at the main Pampelonne beach.

May La Bravade, when piratical processions fill the streets with noise and colour, and the whole town is ‘dressed’ in red and white. June 10–16 Giraglia Rolex Cup – one of St Tropez’s biggest sailing regattas; June–July International Polo Cup (www.polo-st-tropez.com); August 16–22 Ramatuelle jazz festival – featuring international jazz bands (www.jazzfestivalramatuelle.com); September–October Les Voiles de St Tropez – the international yachting competition that sends the port populace sailing-giddy (www.ot-saint-tropez.com).