Mr & Mrs Smith

Frenchman’s Cove is fit for a film set, with its white sand shores, clear waters, enormous climbing trees and tarzan swings. Lunch on jerk chicken and rice, or freshly caught fish cooked for you on the beach. Long Bay, a 45-minute drive from the hotel, is a great spot for surfing –after your salty session, toast the gnarly waves with an ice-cold Red Stripe. Forget Venice – float down the Rio Grande on a bamboo raft, your boatman steering the way as you recline in the two-person settee. The four-hour trip includes a Jamaican buffet lunch, cocktails and chilled beer. If you’ve over-indulged in all things jerk, set off on a bike ride in the Blue Mountains. Along with the historic coffee plantations, there will be a wealth of butterflies, blossoms and birds to admire on your way. Kanopi House can organise all the above (and more).

Mille Fleur is an organic restaurant within Hotel Mocking Bird Hill (+1 876 993 7134), owned by a local artist and peppered with paintings. The food is pricey but flavour-packed – try the coconut and garlic soup, fish with spicy mango-and-shrimp sauce and the home-made breads and jams. Dickie’s Best Kept Secret (+1 876 809 6276) is an unassuming, cliff-hugging building on the road leading west out of Port Antonio. All the food is home-cooked by Dickie, with dishes such as ackee on toast, steamed fish and garlic lobster. Sea Side Restaurant serves up a hearty Jamaican breakfast at Folly Road, overlooking the east harbour. Both decor and atmosphere are laid-back and local, and the menu is determined by the fishermen’s finds.

Take your pick from Port Antonio’s reggae-playing beach bars and roadside rum-shacks.