Mr & Mrs Smith

Repent for last night’s French Quarter carousing at an Anusara yoga class at Nola Yoga in the Lower Garden District (+1 917 568 6158; www.nolayoga.com). With jazz performances, theatre shows, and evocative exhibits of artists local and international, the Contemporary Arts Center is a spot for admirers of edgy, envelope-pushing work (+1 504 528 3805; www.cacno.org). After you’ve oohed and aahed over restored war vessels, airplanes and artefacts at the National WWII Museum at 945 Magazine Street, (+1 504 528 1944; www.nationalww2museum.org) tuck into gourmet interpretations of classic Americana dishes at John Besh’s restaurant, the American Sector: French fries are served standing-up in a tin can, cole slaw is portioned into mini Mason jars (+1504 528 1940; www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector). Take a soundtracked art walk at Ogden After Hours on Thursdays at Odgen Museum of Southern Art on Camp Street. Study Roger Ogden’s collection of southern artists in photos, paintings and drawings as musicians preform (+1 504 539 9600; www.ogdenmuseum.org). Cruise quaint galleries offering abstract and whimsical works on Julia Street, part of Nola’s Arts District (www.neworleansartsdistrict.com).

John Besh’s brasserie Luke, around the corner from the hotel at 333 St Charles Avenue, features French fare with NOLA flare. Time your arrival to coincide with 50-cent oyster happy hour, offering the freshest local bivalves: from 3pm to 6pm daily (+1 504 378 2840; lukeneworleans.com). Self-proclaimed home of the world’s best ham, super-casual Mother’s at 40 Poydras (+1 504 523 9656; www.mothersrestaurant.net), serves the famous Ferdi po’ boy: house-baked ham, roast beef, ‘debris’ and gravy on French bread. Start with a small plate such as devilled crab with butter crackers before moving on to the butcher’s offerings and delights from the wood-burning oven, such as roasted gulf fish at Donald Link’s Cajun joint, Cochon at 930 Tchoupitoulas Street (+1 504 588 2123; www.cochonrestaurant.com). Tradition-steeped, family-run Galatoire’s Restaurant on Bourbon Street opened in 1905 and has been serving dishes such as shrimp remoulade, Louisiana seafood eggplant cake and ribeye bordelaise ever since. It’s first-come, first-served seating on the first floor, but reservations are thankfully accepted for the dining room upstairs (+1 504 525 2021; www.galatoires.com).

Head to Frenchmen Street in Faubourg Marigny, less than 10 minutes away by car, for some of the best local-loved jazz joints. Snug Harbor features foot-stamping live music from homegrown and touring talent within a refurbished 1800s building (+1 504 949 0696; www.snugjazz.com). Catch live Latin, blues and jazz shows twice a night at The Spotted Cat at 623 Frenchmen Street (+1 504 943 3887). With a memorabilia-dotted mahogany bar and a line-up packed with local musicians, Apple Barrel at 609 Frenchmen Street is worth a beer or two (+1 504 949 9399).

Indulge in apple-cinnamon pancakes with a pat of butter and a drizzle of syrup, or the fluffy boiled crawfish omelette at The Ruby Slipper café at 200 Magazine Street in Mid-City (+1 504.525.9355; www.therubyslippercafe.net). Pause under the green and white striped awning of Café Du Monde in the French Quarter for piping-hot beignets complemented by a creamy café au lait (+1 800 772 2927; www.cafedumonde.com).

Order Arnaud’s French 75’s namesake cocktail and head upstairs to check out the Germaine Cazenave Wells Mardi Gras Museum, showcasing the parade frocks of the former proprietress (+1 504 523 5433; www.arnaudsrestaurant.com/french-75). The small, ornate red and gold-flecked bar in the front room of One-Eyed Jacks belies the expansive theatre-turned-club behind the dark-wood double doors. Spicy burlesque shows by resident troupe Fleur de Tease and a roster of rocking musical acts keep this French Quarter hotspot buzzing into the wee hours (+1 504 569 8361; www.oneeyedjacks.net).

March Mardi Gras parades snake through the city. Head to town the weekend before the final week to be part of the locals’ less-frenetic festivities. Late April–early May The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Fest Festival features a killer line-up of musicians, artisans and plenty of New Orleans-style eats. (www.nojazzfest.com) June Vieux to Do Festival gives you three reasons to celebrate: Creole Tomato Festival (www.frenchmarket.org), Louisiana Cajun-Zydeco Music Festival (www.jazzandheritage.org) and the New Orleans Seafood Festival (+1 504 558 6100). October Watch flicks from up-and-coming and seasoned filmmakers during the New Orleans Film Festival (neworleansfilmsociety.org).