Mr & Mrs Smith

If you fancy heading out for dinner, treat yourself to some regal Lao cuisine at L’Elephant (+856 (0)71 252 482; www.elephant-restau.com), on Ban Wat Nong, considered one of the top tables in town by local gourmets. Don’t be put off by cheesy images of 1980s castaways, Blue Lagoon (+856 (0)71 253 698; www.blue-lagoon-cafe.com) is an elegant eatery set in a tastefully renovated Luang Prabang residence. Lao spice and French verve are served with artful presentation. For something more casual, sample street food at the tempting stalls at the evening food market off Sisavangvong Road.

On the Mekong riverside at 46 Ban Wat Nong, the Big Tree Café (+856 20 777 6748; www.bigtreecafe.com) has comfy lounge chairs, book-lined shelves and walls full of photos of Laotian life, as well as a lovely terrace overlooking the water. Swing by for own-label coffee, juices or tasty local, Asian and European dishes, including Korean sushi, bento boxes, tofu salad and pumpkin soup. Open for breakfast but also serving Lao Lao whisky later on, this fashion-forward venue even hosts the occasional gig by visiting muso types.

Mid-April Lao New Year (or Bun Pi Mai) is the highlight of the country’s calendar. As well as water fights and a liberal smattering of talcum powder (sadly not always in the correct bathtime order), Luang Prabang plays host to a colourful elephant procession. May Bun Bang Fai is the Rocket Festival, an ancient ritual to summon the rains, which see locals making merry before firing bamboo rockets wildly into the sky. October–November During the Bun Nam water festival, Luang Prabang stages long-boat races on the Mekong River and villagers flock to town to cheer on their team. A sort of Henley Regatta for the masses, only with Lao Lao rice wine instead of Pimm’s.