Mr & Mrs Smith

Sitting on the caldera, Archipelagos (+30 22860 23673) has spectacular sea views out to the volcano and surrounding islands, and is one of Fira’s best restaurants for native specialities. A romantic favourite is Vanilia (+30 22860 25631) located opposite the old church high on the cliff in Firostefani. Choose a table downstairs for intimacy and upstairs for an ocean view, and try a Santorinian wine. Highly respected is 1800 (+30 22860 71485) located in a traditional sea captain’s house in one of Oia’s small streets. For an early supper, head down to the bustling just-caught-fish restaurants on the beach below Oia; our favourite was Paradiso. Another beachside restaurant is the contemporary Sea Side Lounge (+30 22860 82801). A traditional, family-run taverna is Nikolas, (+30 02286 24550) tucked away in one of Fira’s backstreets next to the Enigma nightclub. It serves fantastic home-cooked fare, but be prepared to queue. On the road to Kamari you’ll find barbecue heaven, Taverna Kritikos, famous for its lamb chops. Don't expect any frills. Depending on what time you visit you’ll be surrounded by large Greek families, local farmers and their wives or glamorous professionals.

Easter If you want to see Greece taking its celebrations most seriously, visit at Easter; the date varies from year to year. It's always the most colourful event in this country's calendar. April There's a festival in honour of the country's only active volcano. September Santorini International Classical Music Festival (+30 22860 23166).