Mr & Mrs Smith

Built into the ramparts and directly overlooking the sea, the fine-dining restaurant Les Vieux Murs, at 25 promenade Amiral de Grasse, is decorated with Murano chandeliers and Italian art (+33 (0)4 93 34 06 73). For a romantic tryst, try for a table in the shade of Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit’s 40-year-old fig tree, at 14 rue de Saint-Esprit (+33 (0)4 93 34 50 12). Restaurant de Bacon, on Boulevard Bacon, started as a simple seafood joint and is now renowned as a sophisticated establishment (+33 (0)4 93 61 50 02). Cocktails and great Italian food are on offer at L’Enoteca, 6 rue Aubernon (+33 (0)4 93 34 03 90). Kitted out with velvety baroque furniture, Mamalu is a less formal setting for excellent pasta, at 11 cours Masséna (+33 (0)4 93 34 40 07). The hotel can arrange for you to have a beachside lunch, and even book your sun loungers at La Plage Keller (+33 (0)4 93 61 28 23), at Cap La Garoupe, one of the area’s most beautiful bays.

Hop on a boat to Ile Sainte Marguerite, densely covered with pine and eucalyptus trees, and just visible from the hotel’s private beach. Boats leave from Cannes, or the hotel can arrange a private charter from its beach. Tour the island’s biological reserve and the old fortress prison (which once confined the Man in the Iron Mask), then top up your tan on the peaceful shores. Visit Nice on a Monday for the famous antiques market in the Cours Saleya, and eat in one of the pretty restaurants surrounding the square. For vivid blooms, return to the square for the flower market, held Tuesday–Sunday until 2pm. Top up your art knowledge with a trip to the Picasso museum, housed inside the Grimaldi Castle, at Vielle Antibes. Promenade down La Croisette at Cannes and indulge in some new designer label threads. The Maeght Foundation at Saint-Paul de Vence contains one of Europe’s most important art collections, and is open daily (www.fondation-maeght.com). After all your culture vulture-ing, slow the pace with a treatment at the indulgent Omnisens spa. For a night with wow-factor, have a massage under the stars, or in a massage tent by the sea.

February Monte Carlo’s glamorous Primo Cup sailing competition fills the marina (www.yacht-club-monaco.mc). April The Tennis Masters attracts the top players (www.masters-series.com/montecarlo). May The Cannes Film Festival lures industry bods and gong-hopeful A-listers to town, for premieres, parties and paparazzi opps (www.festival-cannes.fr). It’s followed by the Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix (www.monte-carlo.mc/formule1) and the Classic Car Grand Prix (www.acm.mc). July The final week of the Nice jazz festival takes place, principally in the ruins of the Roman amphitheatre (www.nicejazzfest.com). August It's Ramatuelle's turn to bring out the brass and blue notes at their annual jazz gathering (www.jazzfestivalramatuelle.com). The Pantiero Festival in Cannes stages electro gigs at the Palais des Festivals (www.festivalpantiero.com). September Les Etoiles de Mougins brings chefs from across the Continent to the mediaeval village for demonstrations, tastings and general gastro celebrations (www.lesetoilesdemougins.com).