Mr & Mrs Smith

Fresh and exotic: our frozen cocktails from Chin Chin are the best Mrs Smith and I have tasted so far during our three-week Asian adventure. This bodes well for our time at Bon Ton Restaurant & Resort. Framed by rainforest-clad hills and the sparkling Andaman Sea, the setting proves as delicious as our drinks, as we savour white-sand-flanked surroundings and watch the sun set over bird-flocked lily ponds.

Some people build hotels; others convert interesting buildings into hotels. We, however, don’t know anyone else who would think to gather eight individual timber houses from Kedah state in Malaysia, bring them all to Langkawi and lovingly rebuild them, creating a boutique hotel-village in a gorgeous island setting. Employing an eye for design and taste for luxury, Narelle, the owner, has restored these antique villas beautifully. From White Frangipani to Black Coral, the themed pavilions provide elegant, historic lodging that’s as far removed from a chain-hotel room as is possible.

We love Bon Ton for its schizophrenia. Rarely does having to change rooms each night prove to be such a treat. Due to our late booking, this is a necessity that gives us the opportunity to experience more of the resort’s unique stilted Malaysian boudoirs.

White Frangipani is the rendezvous for our first night, and the raised antique house positively radiates romance and rustic charm. The enormous bed is fanned by an old-fashioned propeller ticking away overhead and overlooked by an exquisite intricately carved Malay wooden screen. A snoop beyond to the hanging wardrobe reveals an unexpected added amenity: a fluffy cat asleep in the laundry basket. Sneaking past the furry snoozer, we find a spot to elicit our own purrs: a private balcony with an under-the-stars bath.

The following evening, another high-ceilinged, timber-framed number is our exciting new sybaritic residence. We take advantage of the dreamy double bed, clad in crisp linen and festooned with a seductive mosquito net. It is lovey-dovey in its draping, not that there are loads of bugs lying around in smoking jackets and kimonos whispering sweet nothings. (Although so soul-stirring is our come-hither bed, I wouldn’t be surprised if that was the effect on the mood even for its insect residents.)

Mysteriously, although the hotel is full for our stay, we still feel as if we have it to ourselves. Well, almost. Observing cosy corners and comfy cushions more closely, we spot many contented-looking cats. Narelle’s pet project – if you’ll excuse the pun – is the island’s animal sanctuary next door, providing an excellent afternoon’s diversion for cat-cuddlers like Mrs Smith.

Bon Ton Restaurant & Resort offers the discerning globetrotter more than feline entertainment and comfortable tropical quarters, though: the island-famed restaurant Nam lures diners from other hotels with its innovative fusion cuisine. Narelle is, in fact, a well-known foodie in Malaysia. Originally from Australia, she has spent 20 years in the region and gives guests the chance to sample authentic, unpretentious Malay food, all complemented by an impressive wine list.

If the way to your heart is through your stomach, you’ll be smitten with Bon Ton after one bite in the restaurant. Yet what really fast-tracks Bon Ton’s way to a permanent place in our affections are the considerate touches that abound. An in-room Mosquito Kit (containing every possible weapon required in the war against the mozzie), having our laundry pressed to perfection without an inflated hotel mark-up (simply the price charged by the local launderette), discreetly hidden fridges in each room (with a little note attached to say tomorrow’s breakfast of pastries and fresh fruit will wing its way over soon) and bathrooms stocked with locally produced toiletries are all winning features.

And move over rip-off minibars. Our favourite touch of all is an on-site, reasonably priced, internationally stocked wine shop – with a free 24/7 ice-bucket service, no less. It’s attention to details like this that distinguish Narelle as someone who is committed to looking after each and every guest. Keep your eyes peeled and you’ll spot her doing her daily rounds, ensuring everybody’s experience delivers above and beyond expectations.

Little wonder Mrs Smith and I spend much of our final morning discussing how we might wangle a few more nights at Bon Ton. Seeing how sad we are at the prospect of being prised from our Malaysian paradise, Narelle prescribes some Bon Ton medication: a couple of our favourite mango daiquiris. She then hugs us before sending us tearily on our way to the airport. ‘We’ll be back as soon as we can,’ we tell her. An hour later we are as good as our word, having managed to change our flights.

Sipping cocktails, stroking cats and checking in to a fabulous new room, we reflect on how very lucky we are to have 24 more hours of this intoxicating, beautiful and wondrous place. Chances are, as you read this, we’ll have changed our flights yet again.