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Boutique hotels

Cardigan Bay Eating, drinking and dancing

Restaurants

(+44 (0)1545 570755)

Harbourmaster Restaurant

Perched right on quay (the better to preside over our maritime border), this culinary local bigwig serves crab and lobster straight out of the bay – so mind your fingers! There’s Welsh black beef and venison on the menu too; book in advance as its fine reputation makes it a magnet for hungry foodies.

Pen Cei, Aberaeron, Ceredigion SA46 OBA

(+44 (0)1970 630800)

Le Vignoble

The muted, modernist grey décor belies chef Cheuk Kong’s mission to tint his Welsh ingredients a strongly Gallic red, white and blue. We’d recommend a platter of his roast guinea fowl.

31 Eastgate Street, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion SY23 2AS

(+44 (0)1654 767215)

Penhelig Arms

Overlooking the yacht-dotted Dyfi estuary and harbouring a polite, café-style ambiance, this restaurant is a short walk along the coast from boutique hotel Llety Bodfor and serves fabulously fresh fish accompanied by wine from well-appointed cellars. Book a table in the restaurant if you’re in the mood for fine dining and white linen, but we also love the adjoining Fisherman’s Bar – you’ll need reservations here, too, if you want to eat.

27–29 Terrace Road, Aberdovey, Gwynedd LL35 0LT

(+44 (0)1654 767250)

Pharoah’s Bistro

Sharing its owners with the ‘Bistro on the Square’, it’s Mrs Pharoah who takes the lead in this more light-hearted establishment, offering fun fajitas alongside local fish dishes. But try Cottleston Pie, named after a Winnie the Pooh poem, and rejoicing in chicken, garlic sausage and sweetcorn topped with potato crisps and melted cheese.

17 Glandovey Terrace, Aberdovey, Gwynedd LL35 0EB

(+44 (0)1654 767448)

The Bistro on the Square

Behind the seemingly sweet façade of beamed ceilings, picture-covered walls and gingham tablecloths, Zurich-trained chef Trevor Pharoah cooks up a mean (in the best sense) meal. Battle his Zrazy Nelson: griddled medallions of beef fillet, served with a kümmel and cucumber sauce.

1 Chapel Square, Aberdovey, Gwynedd LL35 0EL

(+44 (0)1654 702941)

The Wynnstay

This old coaching inn with its sturdy-looking, dark-wood furniture serves melt-in-the-mouth Welsh venison, roast partridge and even grilled ox heart. Wash Gareth John’s creations down with a bottle from what some reckon is the principality’s most impressive wine cellar. Try to book a table by the vast fireplace, and prepare to feast like kings.

Maengwyn Street, Machynlleth, Powys SY20 8AE

(+44 (0)1654 781209)

Ynyshir Hall Restaurant

Wales is a principality, and a sure way to appreciate that royal fact in full is to experience luxurious dining in a charming country house that once had a notable makeover from its previous owner – Queen Victoria.

Ynyshir Hall, Eglwys Fach, Machynlleth, Powys SY20 8TA

Bars

(+44 (0)1970 617606)

The Orangery

A slick mix of wine bar, café and pub: with plenty of sofa space on which to dip wistfully in and out of your tapas. Aberystwyth is a University town and the Orangery has a youthful appeal that attracts geniuses with good taste – spending their student-loans (or don’s stipends) on dressed crab.

Market Street, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion SY23 1DL

Cafés

(+44 (0)1654 702624)

Quarry Café

Unpretentious, organic and vegetarian fare, set up by the same folk who run the Centre for Alternative Technology down the road. While you munch your spinach and chestnut mushroom risotto, expect to dine with breast-feeding earth-mums sipping lentil and carrot soup as they ponder the notice-board ads.

13 Maengwyn Street, Machynlleth, Powys SY20 8EB

(+44 (0)1970 615791)

The Treehouse

An organic, locally sourced menu, with vegetarian and vegan options (spicy red lentil and roasted butternut squash). Admittedly, the Welsh lamb-burger doesn’t fall into either of those categories. But whether it’s meat or two veg that chirpy décor brightens up your standard Victorian upper room.

14 Baker Street, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion SY23 2EJ

(+44 (0)1654 767470)

Y Bwtri Blasus

This deli is only a short stroll away from boutique bed and breakfast Llety Bodfor, and is the best place in Aberdovey to enjoy coffee, quiches and home-made cakes with the morning papers.

7 Seaview Terrace, Aberdovey, Gwynedd LL35 0EE