Worth getting out of bed for...

Viewpoint

Follow Chomsin Road west of town to Khao Hin Lek Fai, otherwise known as Flintstone Hill. This mighty mound offers gorgeous views of Hua Hin, the beach and the nearby mountain range. The most popular time to clamber to the top is sunset, when the vista is particularly camera-pleasing.

Arts and culture

Go palace-hopping to savour the royal flavour of Hua Hin. North of town, halfway to Cha-Am, is the teak palace Phra Ratchaniwet Marukhathaiyawan, built by King Rama VI in 1923. Its split-level living areas (the royal quarters are on stilts), covered boardwalks and beachy elegance make it an exquisite example of tropical architecture. In 1926, King Rajakhipok (Rama VII) commissioned a summer palace in Hua Hin for his wife, Queen Rambhai Barni. He named it Wang Klai Kangwon, which means ‘far from worries’. When the royals are away, the palace is open for public viewing.

Something for nothing

For a right royal freebie, admire some courtly local architecture at Hua Hin’s train station, one of the oldest in Thailand. This charming building, complete with royal waiting room, was commissioned by King Rama VI and built in the same exuberant style as his palace.

Shopping

No one comes to Hua Hin to shop. In fact, many probably head here to escape the mega-malls that dominate much of Bangkok. Nonetheless, there are several small boutiques around town. The Hua Hin Bazaar, about 100m west of the beach at the corner of Naresdamri and Damnoen Kasem roads, is a good place to hunt for shell trinkets, wood carvings and fab Thai pop CDs. During the day call in at Chatchai Market, off Phetkasem Road, to pick up fresh, inexpensive foodie treats for picnics. Come evening, hit the adjacent Night Market along Dechanuchit Road for fresh-cooked stall fare, and, if you’re there on Saturday night, drop in for a bite and live jazz at Cicada Market, in the park close to the Hyatt.

Daytripper

To see ‘the mountain of three hundred peaks’, drive about 45km south of Hua Hin to Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. The scenery here is breathtaking – beautiful beaches, limestone cliffs, a picture-perfect mountain range, and a vast network of ancient caves, including famous Tham Phraya Nakhon, which contains a royal sala, or ‘open room’, bathed in sunlight. There’s something for wildlife-lovers, too – spot endangered animals such as antelope-like serows, dusky langurs and Irrawaddy dolphins.

Best beach

About 6km south of Hua Hin, Khao Takiab is the ideal seaside spot. Fringed with palms and adorned with a 20m-high golden Buddha statue, this wide stretch of soft white sand is now dotted with a dozen small beach-shack restaurants offering cheap, simple yet scrumptious food.

Perfect picnic

Take a trip west of town to the Hin Lek Fai viewpoint, which has a lofty platform from which to enjoy a sunset picnic and a bottle of wine as you gaze at the gorgeous views. There’s also a restaurant there should you need extra provisions.

Walks

sandy 5km stretch of Hua Hin Beach is heaven for strolling, running, horse-riding and the best spot for people-watching.

Children

This being the beach, there’s plenty to keep kids occupied. Seaside pony rides are prolific and, in most cases, the animals are well looked after, but be sure to check before you mount up. For more animal action, take a trip north-west to Kaeng Krachan National Park (Thailand’s largest) home to waterfalls, a lake, birds and wild elephants.

Activities

Combining parasailing and surfing, the high-energy, adrenalin-pumping sport of kitesurfing is all the regional rage. Get hooked up and take to the waves at one of the local schools: try Kite Thailand (www.kitethailand.com) or Kiteboarding Asia (www.kiteboardingasia.com).

And

Hua Hin literally translates as ‘stone head’ – which will make perfect sense to you when you visit the boulder-scattered headland jutting out from the beach.