Worth getting out of bed for...

Viewpoint

Join every other tourist in town and visit Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep (www.doisuthep.com), a mountaintop temple erected in 1383; it’s well worth the exodus. More than 915m above sea level and just half an hour outside the city, the temple’s vistas are amazing.

Arts and culture

Purists will enjoy touring 14th-century Lanna sculptures and San Kamphaeng ceramics at the Chiang Mai National Museum (+66 (0)53 221 308), but we prefer ogling contemporary handmade art in the city’s independent galleries. Run by Bangkok-born textile designer Kachama K Perez, Studio Kachama on Nimmanhaemin Road showcases delicate hand-woven fabrics. The silk, hemp, cotton, banana fibre and hilltribe textiles are especially noteworthy because they revive traditional Thai weaving techniques (www.kachama.com). Charoenraj Road is the hub for the city’s art scene and home to several boutique art galleries. Our pick is La Luna (www.lalunagallery.com), for its contemporary regional art.

Something for nothing

The Sunday Walking Street Market runs the length of Ratchadamnoen Road from Tapae Gate in the Old Town and is the perfect place to people-watch among stalls selling crafts, bric-a-brac and Buddhist mementoes.

Shopping

Chiang Mai makes a big bleep on the retail radar. Nimmanhaemin Road is the place to start: the buyers for Armani Casa go specially for Gerard Collection’s environmentally ethical bamboo-log tables and chairs (www.gerardcollection.com); Gong Dee Gallery (www.gongdeegallery.com) sells chic wooden pieces – we love the miniature chests and deco-style handbags; and groovy Ginger boutique is great for girlie gifts, clothes and accessories (+66 (0)53 215 635). Also worth a look is home-set furniture shop AKA (+66 (0)53 894 413; www.aka-aka.com), where you’ll find pretty Earth & Fire pottery. Just outside the city, ceramics studio Prempracha’s Collection, just off Chiang Mai Sankampang Road (www.prempracha.com), houses a vast array of stoneware in styles you’ll have seen at home, for a fraction of the price.

Daytripper

Elephant treks are appealing, but you’ll find a guided tour of the Doi Inthanon National Park far more edifying: it’ll take in dramatic waterfalls, pretty pagodas and hilltribe villages, home to the Hmong, Karen or Shan people (and their reasonably authentic handicraft stalls).

Perfect picnic

Weekending locals head to Namtok Huai Kaew for picnics, and it’s easy to see why: this picturesque waterfall near Chiang Mai Zoo is a charming retreat from the city. It’s well worth heaving yourselves out of bed early to shop for seasonal, super-fresh food and Thai snacks and drinks at the organic farmers’ market held at JJ Market (www.jjchiangmai.com) every Saturday and Wednesday 5.30am and 9am.

Walks

The jungly reservoir located in the foothills of Doi Suthep offers cool and peaceful respite, along with splendid, unimpeded views of the city. Quench your thirst with a refreshing beer or manao soda and drink in the scenery at Galae Restaurant (+66 (0)53 278 655) – we suggest you don’t eat there, though.

Children

A dusk sortie to watch creatures of the night rubbing their eyes and starting their dark day at the Chiang Mai Night Safari (+66 (0)53 999 000) will make bedtime stories all the richer. Catch more nocturnal critters at the Chiang Mai Zoo (+66 (0)53 221 179; www.chiangmaizoo.com): as well as a Twilight Zone, there’s an aquarium and a snow dome. Those who still enjoy miniature tea parties might like the Doll Museum at 187/2 Moo 9, Baan Dongkilek (+66 (0)53 837 229).

Activities

Chiang Mai is a hub for the intrepid: zip across the jungle canopy with Flight of the Gibbon (www.treetopasia.com); scale a few mountains or explore caves with Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (www.thailandclimbing.com) – they have equipment to hire; or explore the best mountain bike trails with Chiang Mai Mountain Biking (www.mountainbikingchiangmai.com). White-water rafting, horse-riding and muay Thai training are also available; ask your hotel for details.

And

When walking (or driving) around, take plenty of water – sightseeing is thirsty work in these parts.