Worth getting out of bed for...

Viewpoint

For a high-impact hit of the Bay of Islands head up to Flagstaff Hill (Maiki) in Russell. It was here that the Maori Hone Heke chopped down the flagstaff as a protest against British rule in the 1840s and this picturesque spot boasts panoramic views over town, across the islands and out to Waitangi.

Arts and culture

Hone your Maori history with a pilgrimage to Waitangi Treaty Grounds, near Paihia, known as the birthplace of New Zealand, where the Maori and the British Crown signed the country’s founding agreement in 1840. Check out the Treaty House, carved Maori Meeting House and ceremonial war canoe (www.waitangi.net.nz). For the inside track on the region’s history, head for Russell Museum, and if you’re interested in publishing, don’t miss a tour of fascinating Pompallier (09 403 9015), an 1842 French Catholic mission and printing press famous for producing over 40,000 early religious texts in Maori.

Something for nothing

If you’re an architecture buff, get your kicks for free by taking a gander at some of the area’s old missionary-founded buildings, such as musket fire-scarred Christ Church in Russell, which dates from 1836 and is the country’s oldest church (www.oldchurch.org.nz). We wouldn’t normally advocate hanging out in public toilets, but the one in Kawakawa, at 60 Gillies Street, should be on your to-do list. It was built by famous radical Austrian architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser.

Shopping

Kerikeri is our tip for retail therapy and gallery hopping. There’s an arts and crafts trail that takes in the local stores, with maps available from visitor centres. Russell’s highlights include the Just Imagine Art Gallery (www.justimagine.co.nz) and Mudflats Pottery (09 403 8892).

Daytripper

For an alternative day trip, swim with beautiful-and-brainy dolphins in their natural habitat. The Dolphin Eco Encounter departs from both Paihia and Russell for NZ$86 a person for adults and NZ$43 for kids (www.awesomenz.com).

Best beach

There’s candidates aplenty, but Roberton Island (Motuarohia) is a wildlife refuge with sweeping beaches, lagoons and great snorkelling, making it one of the most beautiful spots in the region. Reach it from Paihia for NZ$48 return, including snorkelling gear (www.islandshuttle.co.nz).

Perfect picnic

Make like a millionaire and hang out on a yacht. Trips on the speedy 15-metre Phantom ocean racer include a picnic lunch (www.yachtphantom.com), at NZ$99 a person for adults and NZ$50 for kids, with a maximum of 10 guests.

Walks

The Cape Brett Track is a challenging day’s walking, but hey, you’ll be saving on gym membership. The route goes through conservation areas and Deep Water Cove is a top spot for a snorkel. If you make it to the track’s end, at the Cape’s lighthouse, spectacular views of the outer Bay of Islands await (see www.doc.govt.nz). For an easier ramble, walk to Haruru Falls, a heavenly horseshoe-shaped waterfall three kilometres from Paihia.

Children

Actionworld, run by two former trapeze artists, has lots of high-wire action, tarzan swings, water slides and trapeze time to tire out your young charges (www.actionworld.co.nz). Lily Pond Farm Park in Paihia (+64 (0)9 402 6099) offers the chance to get hands-on with farm animals if your kids prefer creature comforts.

Activities

Scratch that watersports itch with fishing, sailing, sea kayaking, diving, snorkelling or parasailing (Paihia is the main hub for operators). The warm waters mean you can spot marine life year-round, including bottlenose dolphins and killer whales. For some of NZ’s best diving, head for the Poor Knight Islands, a marine reserve off the coast near Tutukaka. Local dive firms include Dive! Tutukaka (www.diving.co.nz) and Knight Diver Tours (www.poorknights.co.nz).

And

At the Russell Museum catch mementoes of the whaling trade, which had its heyday here in the 19th century, when the number of brothels and booze shops catering to the international whalers saw the region dubbed ‘the hellhole of the Pacific’ (www.russellmu