
Boutique hotels
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Hacienda Santa Rosa
- Style
- Colonial relaxation plantation
- Setting
- Sleepy Yucatan village
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Coqui Coqui Coba
- Style
- Mayan-Mexican medley
- Setting
- In view of Papolchac’s pyramids
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Hacienda San Jose
- Style
- Secret garden estate
- Setting
- Jungly heart of Yucatan
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Coqui Coqui Valladolid
- Style
- Aromatic apothecary
- Setting
- Colonial Calzada de los Frailes
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Hacienda Temozon
- Style
- Belle époque Mexicana
- Setting
- Peninsular palm-tree gardens
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Hacienda Uayamon
- Style
- Luxe romantic ruins
- Setting
- Concealed Campeche gardens
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Rosas & Xocolate
- Style
- Pretty in pink
- Setting
- Privileged Paseo de Montejo
Yucatán Activities
Worth getting out of bed for...
- Viewpoint
- Climb up the Great Pyramid at Uxmal for a view out across the classic Mayan site – you’ll be able to see the carved turtles, jaguars and snakes adorning the crumbling stone exteriors.
- Arts and culture
- The Mayan’s reclaimed-from-the-jungle cities are scattered throughout the area. The most famous are Chichén Itzá, Uxmal and, down towards the Riviera Maya, Cobá and Tulum – marked by temple-pyramids, sacred ball courts, palaces and sacrificial altars. The state capital Mérida was founded on the Mayan city of T’ho – and the ancient civilisation’s carved stones were used in the construction of the colonial cathedrals and mansions that line the Paseo de Montejo. In the ‘yellow city’ of Izamal, San Antonio de Padua is a monastery built on the platform of the Mayan temple that existed on the site.
- Something for nothing
- The area’s limestone landscape is dotted with cenotes – pools connected by a network of underground caverns and rivers. Regarded as sacred sites by the Maya, who thought they represented the entrance to the underworld, they also make refreshing places to swim.
- Shopping
- Head to Mérida to take your pick of Yucatecan handicrafts – stock up on palm-woven panama hats, locally made licqueurs, earthenware and traditional Mayan clothing, such as the embroidered huipiles (tunics).
- Daytripper
- The magnificent coastal views from the ruins at Tulum make it worthy of a day trip – this archaeology-on-sea is perched right on the cliff’s edge, with crystal-clear Caribbean shores on its doorstep. The drive from Mérida takes around three hours.
- Best beach
- You’ll have to head south to the Riviera Maya for pure Caribbean-style beaches, but the one at laid-back port town, Progreso, isn’t bad – it’s been a winter holiday-home haven for Americans, Canadians and Mexicans since the Fifties.
- Perfect picnic
- Picnic in peace at Kabah or Labna, Mayan sites that don’t get as much attention as the rest. You’ll feel like a pioneering, picnicking explorer.
- Walks
- Trace the ancient city walls of Campeche, a fortified Unesco World Heritage Site in Yucatán’s neighbouring state. This colonial city was once protected by pirates and is pristinely preserved, and seven of the eight bastions are still standing.
- Children
- Mérida’s zoo on Avenida Itzaes and Calle 59 has a zoo with a train, lake and rides (www.merida.gob.mx/centenario). On Sunday mornings, parts of the city are closed off to traffic to allow a bicycle-only zone – you can hire bikes for 10 pesos an hour.
- Activities
- As well as birdwatching and ruin-exploring, you can kayak through the mangroves at Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve (and watch for more birds as you do it – especially flamingos). Try cenote diving, or just swimming, at Valladolid – the one at Dzitnup just outside the city is the best place for a dip with a difference.
- And
- Birdwatchers will love the Yucatán for its 442 species (including the region’s own wren and the visiting Brown Noddy), 11 of which you’ll only ever spy in these tropical parts.
Diary
2 February The Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas) festival is celebrated all over Mexico with candlelit celebrations. Late February Carnaval takes place in the week prior to Ash Wednesday, and has become a major event in Mérida and Campeche. 5 May Cinco de Mayo marks a huge celebration to commemorate the Mexican victory in the Battle of Puebla. 16 September Mexicans celebrate being Mexican on Independence Day. 31 October–2 November The Day of the Dead festival celebrations combine pre-Columbian ancestor worship with elements of Halloween.