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Boutique hotels

Venice Eating, drinking and dancing

Restaurants

(+39 041 528 6396)

Ai Gondolieri

Close to the Guggenheim and a comfy amble away from Ca Maria Adele, Ai Gondolieri is popular with local and visiting carnivores for its meaty Veneto dishes of game and pork, with gnocchi and polenta featuring on the menu. There's a decent wine list, too. Closed Tuesdays.

366 Dorsoduro, 30123 Venice

(+39 041 720 744)

Anice Stellato

This restaurant on Fondamenta della Sensa, Cannaregio does fabulous fish with subtle spicing.

+39 041 523 5310

Bacaro da Fiore

A traditional trattoria that doubles as a cicchetteria, serving up snack-size portions of fried fish and veg.

3461 San Marco, Calle de le Botteghe, 30100 Venice

(+39 041 523 2061)

Bancogiro

Ask for a window seat at this popular restaurant on Campo San Giacometto.

(+39 041 523 9577)

Cantinone Storico

A good local eatery for seafood, with an impressive wine cellar. Definitely try to get a seat by the canal in summer – or by the window in winter. Ask the waiter to tell you about the specials, and then trust his recommendations.

San Vio Square, Fondamenta Bragadin, 660–661 Dorsoduro, Venice

(+39 041 524 0016)

Il Refolo

This is a great pizzeria near the Museum of Modern Art, though not open all year round.

(+39 041 522 7151)

Locanda Montin

This pretty place on Fondamenta di Borgo serves great antipasti on a vine-covered terrace.

+39 041 528 5239

Osteria di Santa Marina

Low-key-but-lovely. Try the turbot ravioli in shellfish broth, scallop risotto and ice-cream macaroons.

5911 Castello, Campo Santa Marina, 30122 Venice

+39 041 524 3677

Osteria l’Orto dei Mori

Head here for excellent Venetian food off the tourist-trodden path.

(+39 041 721 822)

Poste Vecie

This place on Rialto Pescheria is Venice’s oldest restaurant, reached by a private bridge.

(+39 041 277 0688)

Ristorante Acqua Pazza

Large, slick and spread out across a piazza, this Neapolitan restaurant is a favourite with well-to-do Venetians and Italian visitors. Ingredients are sourced from Campania and the Amalfi Coast, and the buffalo mozarella is fresh as fresh can be. Pizzas are tasty but enormous, so you might want to share one with a salad if you're not terribly hungry. Closed Mondays.

Campo Sant'Angelo, 3808–10 San Marco, 30124 Venice

(+39 041 521 2661)

Ristorante Cantina Canaletto

For a cosy, wine-bottles-along-the-wall kind of osteria, try this restaurant at Castello 5490.

(+39 041 721 308)

Ristorante da Fiore

This restaurant on Calle del Scaleter is one of the best places in town; book a month in advance.

(+39 041 522 7621)

Ristorante Riviera

Stroll past all the touristy restaurants on your way towards Zattere and you'll find this little Sunday-lunch gem on the banks of the canal. Owner-manager Luca also waits tables, so good service is pretty much a foregone conclusion. Order the seafood and courgette risotto or the tagliatelle with scallops, and wash it down with plenty of the house white. Closed Mondays.

1473 Dorsoduro, 30123 Venice

(+39 041 522 7220)

Trattoria alle Testiere

This excellent trattoria on Calle del Mondo Novo specialises in fish.

(+39 041 523 2148)

Trattoria do Forni

This trattoria on Calle Specchieri is very classical; book dinner in the Orient Express room.

+39 041 527 2281

Venissa Ristorante Ostello

Enjoy the boat ride out to Mazzorbo, then dine on the freshest seasonal produce. The estate makes wine for its well-stocked cellar.

3 Santa Caterina, Island Mazzorbo, 30170 Venice

Bars

Al Marca

This little café-bar is good for a pre-dinner drink or a quick wine-enhanced lunchtime snack if you’re north of Ponte Rialto or checking out the fish market in the San Polo District (or staying at nearby Palazzo Barbarigo).

213 Sestiere San Polo, Venice 30125