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Abruzzo Activities

Worth getting out of bed for...

Viewpoint
Stare out at the Passo San Leonardo, the high point of the mountain road across from the Majella massif, or at the lake and mountains having ridden the chairlift up to Monte Rotondo (open during ski season and in July/August).

Arts and culture
You may wish to bypass L’Aquila, as many of its galleries and museums are still being restored after the 2009 earthquake. Instead, visit historic Sulmona: Piazza Garibaldi has a Baroque fountain and Piazza XX Settembre hosts a brooding statue of classics hero Ovid, born in the town. Wander Castelli’s pottery workshops to see brightly coloured majolica being made; take some home from Ceramiche Simonetti on Villagio Artigiano (+39 0861 979493). More majolica can be seen at the tile-decorated tomb of local war hero Andrea Bafile, hidden in a cave at the end of Bocca di Valle. Guardiagrele is a smith town in the truest sense: it’s famed for its intricate gold, copper and wrought-iron works, displayed in the shops dotted along the old town wall. Don’t miss Santa Maria Maggiore, with its asymmetrical Majella-stone façade, Baroque interior, ancient bell tower and one of master goldsmith Nicola da Guardiagrele’s famed crosses.

Something for nothing
Drive up to the top of Campo Imperatore, a peak-encircled plain filled with wild flowers. It’s a scenic drive that’s been captured in countless TV ads (and Ladyhawke). The remote refuge hotel here was where Mussolini was imprisoned during World War II until his escape in 1943.

Shopping
Abruzzo has plenty of open-air produce markets, including a twice-weekly one in Sulmona’s Piazza Garibaldi (Saturdays and Wednesdays). Sulmona is also famed for its many gold shops, as is Scanno: take the scenic drive along rocky gorges and hair-raising bends to glean some Orient-inspired filigree jewellery at Di Rienzo Armando at 1 via de Angelis (+39 0864 74329). In summer, Castelli has an alfresco ceramic market, with artisans at work.

Daytripper
The seaside city of Pescara on the Adriatic Coast has 20 kilometres of uninterrupted sandy shores. While you’re there, peek in the home of poet and political pest Gabriele d’Annunzio (casadannunzio.beniculturali.it), and the Museo delle Genti d’Abruzzo (gentidabruzzo.it), which charts the history of the region’s people.

Perfect picnic
Pack your hamper with breads and cheeses from the daily market in Santo Stefano di Sessanio’s main square for a lakeside picnic on Lago di Scanno. The breathtaking scenery takes in a church as well as the water. In summer, boats and pedalos can be hired.

Walks
Hike up to Rocca Calascio, the oldest and highest mountain fort in Italy; it dates back to the 10th century. If reaching the 1,460-metres-above-sea-level peak is a bit of an uphill struggle, stop in Calascio village for some lunch; try Rifugio della Rocca for some nourishing local fare (+39 338 805 9430; rifugiodellarocca.it).

Activities
Roccaraso (roccaraso.net) is one of the country’s largest ski resorts (and Abruzzo’s best). National parks constitute a third of Abruzzo’s territory: go on miniature safari in the Majella National Park (parcomajella.it) to spot freely roaming wolves and bears, and soaring birds of prey; this limestone massif encompasses gorges, caves, rivers and peaks, 30 of which top 2,000m. Gran Sasso National Park (parconazionalegransasso.it) has horse-riding and walking routes past castles, hermitages and waterfalls.

And
Abruzzo is where luxury spice saffron made its Italian home, after a priest brought it from Spain 450 years ago. The crocus it grows in flourishes on the Navelli Plain, and is arduously farmed, hence the hefty price: you need 100,000 flowers per kilo.il

Diary

January Festa di San Antonio Abate on the 17th celebrates a saint from Egypt and lasagne all at once, as locals gather around a large cauldron to feast on the stuff (scanno.org). May On the first Thursday of the month, the residents of Cocullo celebrate their patron saint, St Dominic, by toting a statue of him through the town. So far, so Catholic – except that it's covered in live snakes brought by pilgrims as offerings to the serpent-loving saint. After conventional festival staples – fireworks, banqueting – and the party doesn't end until the traditional breakfast picnic at the foot of the town’s hill. We don’t know what happens to the snakes, though… (comune.cocullo.aq.it/festa.asp). September The residents of Santo Stefano di Sessanio celebrate the harvest of their favourite plant: the lentil. Watch out for cook-offs outside the town hall. October Villa Santa Maria’s Festa dei Cuochi brings Abruzzese dishes to the masses (rassegnacuochi.com).