Worth getting out of bed for...

Viewpoint

Patrol the mediaeval ramparts in Angoulême, where 2km of ancient wall remain intact. Only a gilded frame could better the city views along the stretch between Rempart du Midi and Place Beaulieu.

Arts and culture

At the comic-strip museum in Angoulême at 121 rue de Bordeaux (+33 (0)5 45 38 65 65), the geeky graphic genre is illuminated through drawings, magazines and frescoes. In Cognac, Camus is one of the last family-run cognac houses, and offers half-day ‘blend your own’ brandy masterclasses, as well as tours and tastings (+33 (0)5 45 32 72 96; www.camus.fr). King of the region’s castles is Le Château de la Rochefoucauld (+33 (0)5 45 62 07 42; www.chateau-la-rochefoucauld.com). Take the guided tour for access to the vast libraries (18,000 volumes from the 18th and 19th centuries) and archives.

Something for nothing

The first two hours are free when you hire a yellow bicycle in La Rochelle, which, in 1997, became the first city in France to instigate car-free days. Secure yours at Autoplus on Place de Verdun and Quai Valin (+33 (0)5 46 34 02 22).

Shopping

There are night markets in summer in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, selling the usual arts/crafts/jewellery. In La Rochelle, follow your nose to Rue Marché to admire the fantastical, fragrant fruits of the sea. Nip into Chocolaterie Duceau at 18 place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville in Angoulême (+33 (0)5 45 95 06 42). Its artisans have been creating chocolates by hand since 1876, and their Marguerite sweets, made of dark chocolate with orange peel, have stood the test of time.

Daytripper

le de Ré is worthy of a day’s exploration. Either take the toll bridge from La Rochelle if you’re driving, or cross by boat from its old harbour to Saint-Martin-de-Ré (+33 (0)5 46 34 25 67; www. inter-iles.com). The marina there is the place to yacht-spot, enjoy an ice-cream, and browse galleries and boutiques. Have lunch at Les Embruns at 6 rue Chay Morin (+33 (0)5 46 09 63 23), before heading out to La Flotte, Ars-en-Ré or viewpoint Saint-Clément- des-Baleines. If you’re staying on Ile de Ré, a trip to Angoulême, with its atmospheric old town, ramparts and engaging museums, is worth the mileage.

Best beach

La Grande Conche at Royan is a 2km arc of tan-gold sand, sweeping south from Royan to Saint-Georges de Didonne. On Ile d’Oléron, the sheltered beaches around Saint-Trojan-les-Bains, including gorgeous Gatseau, are family-friendly and edged with pines.

Walks

Follow the banks of the Charente river for a leisurely stroll, or head south to the granite landscapes of the Pays d’Issoire. Buy a walking map from a presse (newsagent) or ask at your hotel.

Children

Take little Smiths to the beach: south of La Rochelle, Châtelaillon Plage is a Belle Epoque resort with powder-soft shores. Near Royan, the Conche de Pontaillac is quieter and more sheltered than star-turn, the Grande Conche. Near Guizengeard (between St Emilion and Cognac), the Haute Saintonge safari park is not very French, but is very fun for tots (+33 (0)5 45 98 99 31; www.safariparc.com).

Activities

Enjoy a canter in the countryside – you’ll find dozens of stables open to the public across Poitou-Charentes (www.cheval-poitoucharentes.com). Take to the region’s rivers: try kayaking at Aubeterre- sur-Dronne (www.aubeterresurdronne.com), or at Montbron on the Tardoire. Or take a trip on a gabarre – a flat-bottomed barge made for ferrying premium booze down to the coast – from the pretty village of Saint-Simon, west of Angoulême (www.village-gabarrier.com).

And

Ile d’Oléron is France’s second largest island, behind Corsica, and is home to some of the nation’s most revered oyster farms, the Marennes-Oléron variety its pride and joy.