Local knowledge

Taxis

You can take a taxi from the airport for a flat rate of US$7 to any destination in Siem Reap. There are no metered taxis as such, but the tuk tuk drivers more than make up for it by offering their services every 10 seconds or so. Motorbikes are a cheap way to get around the temples, starting at just US$8 a day. Short hops around town are US$1 or less.

Tipping culture

Most Cambodians don’t tip, but forget ‘When in Rome’ and all that, as most Siem Reapers are well used to a little extra. Five to 10 per cent should be fine unless encountering exceptional service (good or bad).

Siesta and fiesta

Banks are open 8am–3.30pm weekdays, and ATMs are pretty common. Shops vary widely, but core hours are 8am–8pm. Cambodians like to eat just after sunset, so truly local places close early. Night spots warm up around 9pm, but the bassline doesn’t fully kick in until around midnight.

Packing tips

A scarf, T-shirt and guidebook – so you have something to wave at temple touts when they shout ‘You buy scarf, T-shirt, guidebook?’

Recommended reads

Of the often-dry temple guides, Ancient Angkor by Claude Jacques is the least likely to make you nod off, partly thanks to beautiful photography by Michael Freeman. River of Time by Jon Swain is a trip back to old Indochina and includes a gripping account of the French embassy stand-off after the Khmer Rouge takeover of Phnom Penh.

Cuisine

Thailand and Vietnam may be the region’s gourmet heavyweights, but Cambodia is no slouch when it comes to going a few rounds in the kitchen. Angkor has put Cambodia on the tourist map, and amoc (baked fish with coconut, lemongrass and chilli) may yet put the country on the culinary map.

Currency

Cambodian riel (KHR) or US dollar (US$); US$1 equals approximately KHR4000.

Time zone

GMT + 7 hours.

Dialling codes

Country code for Cambodia: +855; Siem Reap: (0)63 (drop the zero if dialling from overseas).

Do go/don't go

The cooler, drier months from November to February make rambles in the jungle more enjoyable, but the world and his wife will be there, too. The wet season, which peaks from June to October, need not put a dampener on your trip, as the landscape is lush and the showers short.