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Hotel Highlights

  • Sublime valley views over the verdant countryside
  • Lembah Spa for indulgent pampering
  • Rooms come with a private pool and relaxation pavilion

Overview

Perched atop a river ridge, classically elegant Viceroy Bali boutique hotel near arty inland Ubud offers verdant vistas from its sublime infinity pool, spa or your own personal relaxation pavilion. Snaffle a thatched villa with a private outdoor pool to soak up views of the Valley of the Kings, so called because Balinese royalty once made their homes in the rustic villages nearby.

Smith Extra

Here's what you get for booking Viceroy Bali with us:

A one-hour spa treatment for two

Facilities

View Gallery
Viceroy Bali Hotel – Bali – Indonesia

Need To Know

Rooms

25 pool villas.

Check–out

12pm, but flexible subject to availability and a half-day charge before 6pm; after 6pm, a full extra day's tariff applies. Check-out, 2pm.

Rates

Double rooms from $776.86, excluding tax at 21 per cent.

More details

Room rates include welcome drink, à la carte breakfast, Ubud area shuttle service for drop-offs and pick-ups, and use of Jacuzzi and steam bath (book in advance).

Also

The lofty Lembah Spa comes with sublime valley views, as well as a dreamy deck for chilling out. Treatments, developed by Swiss therapists, blend Balinese and western techniques, plus there's a Jacuzzi, steam room and cold plunge pool for pampering.

At the hotel

Spa, gym, library of books and DVDs, free WiFi throughout, gardens, boutique, helipad. In rooms: flatscreen satellite TV, CD/DVD player, iPod dock, minibar, espresso machine with Illy coffee, private pool (in Deluxe Terrace Villas).

Our favourite rooms

We recommend the Deluxe Terrace Villas, so don't settle for less. The spacious bedroom, living space and bathroom are pretty swank, but the real wow factor is the relaxation pavilion on the terrace, perched over your own outdoor pool with views of the dramatic Petanu River gorge beyond. An alfresco dining table means romantic meals à deux are on the cards.

Poolside

Sinuous and sexy, the curvy main pool culminates in a dramatic infinity-edge overlooking towering palm trees. Sunloungers, shady relaxation balés (pavilions) and a pretty water feature up the come-hither factor.

Packing tips

Bring your yoga, trekking or cycling gear if you plan to get active; or your biggest sunglasses if you'd rather just get horizontal. Mosquito repellant is always a good call in jungle-fringed Ubud.

Also

Smoking is allowed in open-air areas only. There is a compulsory Christmas dinner and New Year's dinner at Viceroy, and there are minimum-stay restrictions during this period.

Children

Welcome, but this is more of a romantic adult resort. Baby cots and extra beds for older kids can be provided for US$100 a night (including breakfast), and babysitting with staff costs about US$11 an hour, given a day's notice.

Read more

Eco‐friendly

Villas were designed using natural, local building materials to blend in with the environment. The hotel also supports clean drinking water and recycling schemes, serves seasonal and organic food, and has guest bicycles.

Food & Drink

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Viceroy Bali Hotel – Bali – Indonesia

Hotel Restaurant

Offering jaw-dropping views from its open pavilions and trad Balinese styling (cue lofty alang-alang thatched roof), Cascades Restaurant serves up tasty French food with an Asian twist. Typical dishes run the gamut from Indonesian rijstaffel (tasting plates) to pistachio-encrusted rack of lamb or zucchini flowers with goat's cheese. There's an impressive global wine list, too.

Hotel Bar

In need of a cocktail fix? Luckily, the Viceroy Bar has a rep for pouring some of the best in Bali, alongside fine wines, cognacs, Japanese whiskies and cigars for your delectation. Popular with both guests and walk-in visitors, it sports a striking long lacquered bar and lots of lounge space for taking in those gorgeous gorge horizons.

Last orders

Lunch at Cascades is served from 12pm–2pm, dinner from 6pm–10pm; the bar keeps going until 11pm.

Room service

Available 24 hours a day, offering pretty much everything on the restaurant menu.

Smith Insider

Dress code

Dress up for romance, or down for relaxation – it's your call.

Top table

Aim for a table near the valley edge for tropical trysts.

Local Guide

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Viceroy Bali Hotel – Bali – Indonesia
Eat, drink, see, do: local favourites and more…

Worth getting out of bed for

If you'd rather not stray far from bed, the hotel offers Balinese dancing, cooking, kite- or offering-making classes, private yoga sessions and plenty of spa pampering. Futher afield, head out on a village tour, rice-paddy trek, rustic cycle ride, elephant safari or go river rafting. For a culture hit, drive into local town Ubud, where you'll find respected art galleries, chic boutiques, temples and a crafts market, as well as a monkey forest full of pesky but entertaining simians. Viceroy Bali can also organise trips, including helitours, to top sights across Bali.

Local restaurants

Head to rated Ubud restaurant Mosaic (+62 361 975 768; www.mozaic-bali.com). Considered one of Asia's best, it's set in a lush tropical garden on Jalan Raya Sanggingan. Under the helm of chef Chris Salans, it serves up delicious dishes marrying French skills with Balinese ingredients and flavours, including Indonesian and contemporary global offerings.

Local bars

For a casual drink with a very local feel make for Naughty Nuri's Warung and Grill, off Jalan Raya Sanggingan, a simple roadside shack-come-eatery that's a hit with expats for a casual beer or charcoal-grilled pork ribs. Don't expect frills.

+ Enlarge
View-blessed Petanu valley-top

Viceroy Bali

Jl. Lanyahan, Br Nagi, Ubud, Bali, 80571

Viceroy Bali is five minutes' drive east of the small inland town of Ubud, Bali's cultural heart, located near the village of Nagi on the slopes of the Petanu River valley.

Planes

Fly into Bali's Ngurah Rai International Airport (www.baliairport.com), just south of capital Denpasar.

Trains

Train travel isn't an option on the island of Bali.

Automobiles

From the airport it's a 40-kilometre drive north-east to Viceroy Bali near Ubud. The hotel offers free parking, although we recommend being chauffeured unless you're an old Bali hand as roads can be hairy.

Other

If you'd rather commandeer a copter, the hotel has its own helipad. The flight from the airport takes 12 minutes, and is available from 6am–1pm, carrying up to four people.

Reviews

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Viceroy Bali Hotel – Bali – Indonesia

Anonymous review

by Angus Fontaine , Hotel-loving hack

Ma and Pa Smith have four days’ parole from the parent trap. A five-hour flight from Sydney and 50-minute drive through a thousand shades of green later, the Viceroy Bali in Ubud has ensconced us in the lap of luxury with a view of the Valley of the Kings and smiles on our faces as broad as the equator itself. Ubud. A town as mystical as it sounds. Even though the hubbub in this tiny Baline…
Read more

Viceroy Bali

Anonymous review by Angus Fontaine, Hotel-loving hack

Ma and Pa Smith have four days’ parole from the parent trap. A five-hour flight from Sydney and 50-minute drive through a thousand shades of green later, the Viceroy Bali in Ubud has ensconced us in the lap of luxury with a view of the Valley of the Kings and smiles on our faces as broad as the equator itself.

Ubud. A town as mystical as it sounds. Even though the hubbub in this tiny Balinese province of 30,000 residents has grown exponentially since the Julia Roberts film Eat Pray Love was shot here in 2009, the local penchant for harmony keeps things laid-back. We hope a little of that will rub off on us.

Ubud gets its name from ubad, the Balinese word for medicine, and since the 1960s, the town’s soul-soothing qualities have become legendary. Ubud makes a religion of relaxation – Charlie Chaplin, Noel Coward, HG Wells and Woolworths heiress Barbara Hutton all tasted of its virtues early and helped boost its global fame as an arty sanctuary.

No natural stone was left unturned in the 2005 construction of the Viceroy, a boutique hotel where ultra-luxe Balinese styling meets eco-chic. Framed by a tapestry of rice paddies and set in verdant cliffs along the Petanu River gorge, the Viceroy appeals to VIPs and hedonists alike.

Mrs Smith and I are in one of 14 Deluxe Terrace Villas. Our one-bed lodging has a thatched balé, or pavilion, overlooking our private pool and the surrounding jungle. We trade urban accoutrements such as phones, laptops, iPods and watches for day-beds, plunge pools and butterfly watching. Around us, streams tinkle and birds twitter in much less than 140 characters.

As the blush of dusk descends on our first day, we wander hand-in-hand to dinner along a winding path illuminated by tea-lights wrapped in tree leaves as transparent as our joy. At Cascades, the Viceroy’s swish alfresco restaurant, our table is strewn with orchid petals, and as the champagne gets guzzled and the organic canapés build to crescendo, we feel weight lift and serenity settle.

But before we crash onto the cloud that is our dreamy bed, we put an urgent call through to reception. See, the key to triumphant tomorrows in Ubud is to learn the Balinese phrase amati lelanguan... then immediately unlearn it (it means ‘non-indulgence in sensory pleasures’ – hang that!).

From dawn, the perfect Ubud day unfolds for us like the eight petals of the lotus. First, a private yoga session is conducted by a local yogi in a T-shirt proclaiming ‘Close your eyes to see’. We obey, embracing our bendy inner-pretzel despite the pops, creaks and protests of our desk-bound skeletons. Then it’s a breakfast of exotic fruits in the cabana before a plunge in the pool (and another betwixt the sheets).

It’s easy to anchor at the Viceroy but its driver-on-call policy means we can zip into town for shopping and street food and still be back in time for our couples massage and 68-jet Jacuzzi session at the hotel’s famous Lembah Spa.

As chilled as the post-treatment cocktail, we amble into the afterglow of the afternoon via neighbouring rice fields. The real Ubud is most vivid here: kids hauling kites skyward, mothers bathing babies in ditches, young men proudly washing motorbikes and old women effortlessly carting rice bales on their heads. All smile hello, human proof that Ubud’s gifts are there to be shared.

Back at base, Mrs Smith and I are joined in the bath by another woman – Saraswati, Hindu goddess of knowledge and music. As we sink back in the suds and soak up the soundtrack of water trickling down the walls, her four stone arms enfold us, each symbolising a purushartha (pillar of human life) – dharma (righteousness), artha (prosperity), kama (desire) and moksha (freedom). Arm in arm with the gods, eye to eye with luxury and each other – that’s the Viceroy Bali.
 

 

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith hotel with us, we'll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Viceroy Bali's Guestbook below.

 

BlackSmith

Stayed on

We loved

The privacy and character of the Deluxe Terrace Villas, the convenience of the Ubud shuttle and the stunning view from the restaurant (particularly in the morning sun for breakfast).

Don’t expect

The gym is in need of renovation. It's a bit chintzy with the extras, given the rates one pays to stay there.

Rating: 8/10 stars