Worth getting out of bed for
Lazing on the pretty pink-sand beach is the number one 'activity' on Tikehau, with plenty of loungers to lure you, and a small pool. Borrow free kit from reception to snorkel right off the shore in the lagoon. The water is usually tranquil, with plenty of fish to ogle and seabirds to scope, but watch out for regular currents washing in and out of the gap to the open ocean, near the main pontoon.
Free distractions include kayaking, beach volleyball, badminton, bocce, billiards and table tennis (just pop to the activities desk at reception for details). You'll need to pay extra for diving, deep-sea or lagoon fishing (the chefs will happily cook up your catch), bike hire for wheeling around tranquil Tuherahera village, picnics on secluded motus, excursions to Bird Island (a sanctuary for bird-life a 40-minute boat ride across the lagoon) or spa treats. Gourmets can also bag a two-hour cookery class with the resort's chef, handy if you want to learn to make poisson cru, Polynesia's tasty take on cerviche.
The Tuamotus boast some of the best diving in French Polynesia, so head for the Blue Nui by Topdive (www.topdive.com) outlet by reception if you fancy plumbing the depths. There are morning and afternoon dives for both certified divers and beginners, usually heading out to four sites a 30-minute boat ride away at the fringe of the lagoon (Tuheiava Pass, Shark Hole, Canyons and Mamaa). Sightings include eagle and manta rays, dolphins, barracuda, tuna, and grey, hammerhead and white-tipped sharks, depending on the season. Topdive offers money-saving dive packages, including multi-island deals, if you plan on exploring further afield. Diving here may be a tad less dramatic than at neighbouring atoll Rangiroa, but sites will also be less crowded.
If that's too much strain head for the intimate Manea Spa in a thatched fare (hut) at the north end of the island, which offers two massage tables facing the beach. Polynesian treatments include four-hand massages, delectable sand-scubs and wraps using all-natural products and local Monoi oil (a coconut oil perfumed with tiare flowers). Therapists also harness volcanic stones and sandalwood, with special sessions for men.
Romance more your scene? Seduce your companion with a host of bespoke wining and dining experiences (at extra cost), kicking off with private transfers from the airport and continuing with breakfast for two on your terrace, by the blue lagoon or delivered by outrigger canoe (the too-cool local transport of choice). Barefoot beach lunches, sunset cocktails and starlight dinners should put a twinkle in your eye, or escape with a gourmet picnic on a private motu in the lagoon. For total indulgence, opt for the Royal Pape Miti, where you and your paramour will be treated like a king and queen for a day (cue overwater massages and mucho pampering).
Other than snaffling snacks in the local food stores on main motu Tuherahera, you're unlikely to eat outside the hotel. This is castaway luxe, after all.