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In the know

Our favourite rooms
If, like Forster, you’re after a room with a view, book a bijou boudoir in the Tower (no bath, though). The Castle rooms are the exposed-stonework real deal, with hand-made floor tiles from Marrakech, patchwork-hide rugs and dramatic views, to be enjoyed from cushioned window seats in some rooms. Stained glass windows draped in Indian silk, a Victorian bathtub and antique Tibetan rugs lend opulence to the palatial Suite Pere Margarit by Dutch designer Menno Kroon. Look out for the fabulous whale-tail shelf.
Packing tips
Bring dancing shoes and something red and frilly – the bar hosts live music performances. Relic hunters should pack their most elastic plastic to flex, in anticipation of the area’s pottery and collectibles. Remember a jumper for cooler nights.
Also
On selected Friday nights, a local dancer performs a fabulous fusion of ballet and flamenco in the bar.
Girona hotels: Castell d'Empordà, need to know

Current offers

Smith card offer
A mystery olive oil gift and a bottle of cava.
Girona hotels: Castell d'Empordà, food and drink
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Castell d'Empordà

Empordà, Spain[view map]

Style
Catalan castle cool
Setting
Costa Brava countryside

Sandwiched splendidly between the Pyrenees peaks and the Costa Brava’s cliffs and coves, mediaeval Castell d’Empordà is a Catalan ruin that has been transformed into a luxury boutique hotel. East of Girona, in the Catalan countryside, this romantic retreat includes rooms in the castle – once home to an explorer who sailed with Christopher Columbus – and is fittingly strewn with exotic treasures from across the globe.

Need to know

Rooms
38, including nine suites.
Rates
€135–€390 a night (depending on room type) including buffet breakfast and excluding seven per cent tax.
Check-out
12pm; earliest check-in, 2pm.
Facilities
Gardens, library including DVDs, bar. In rooms: flatscreen TV, DVD player and minibar.
Poolside
There’s a turquoise-tiled, heated outdoor pool in the gardens, overlooking the green-gold scenery.
Hotel closed
30 November 2009 to 5 March 2010.
Also
Smoking is allowed in some bedrooms and in the hotel’s communal areas.

Food & drink

Hotel restaurant
A dramatic bull’s-head sculpture on the wall keeps watch over proceedings in the sensual gothic restaurant. Black silk drapes lie sleekly against the rough, nougat-coloured stone walls, glossy jet chandeliers drip from the ceilings and tabletop candles flicker amid the dark expanse. In summer, floor-to-ceiling glass doors open up onto the terrace and in winter, the fire crackles and muted jazz provides a relaxed background. Offerings are Spanish with global influences – be sure to try the signature tuna sashimi dish.
Dress code
Channel flamenco-glam for evening, light and layered during daylight hours.
Top table
Sit out on the terrace – enjoy a lazy lunch in the shade by day and admire the twinkling lights from distant towns by night.
Last orders
11pm for dinner; the bar is open noon until midnight. Grab breakfast between 8am to 10.30am; lunch from 1pm to 3.30pm; and dinner from 8pm.
Room service
There’s no room service but the restaurant is sure to cater to your culinary needs.
Hotel bar
The Cava Del Drac, housed in the old wine cellar, is a suitably historic and dramatic drinking den. Sit among the vaulted stone ceilings on low, slouchy sofas in neutral shades and admire the decor, inspired by a ’50s Parisian jazz bar. Small, curved tables sparkle with tea lights and a relaxed soundtrack of laid-back lounge music will fill any gaps in conversation. Leave no alcove unturned; there is a bounty of books on art, wine, history and so forth to enjoy with a glass of tempranillo.

Also worth knowing

Children
Little Smiths are welcome, with cots provided free, extra beds for €40 a night and babysitting with a nanny (€20–€25 an hour, book three days in advance).

Smith Members offer

Smithcard

A mystery olive oil gift and a bottle of cava.

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Castell d'Empordà

S/n 17256 La Bisbal
Girona