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Hacienda de San Rafael

Seville Province, Spain[view map]

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We had faultless tips from Anthony, the delightful and charming owner/manager, who couldn't have been more helpful in advising us on places to eat/bars to visit (especially since he discovered our keen interest in food and drink). He directed us with particular success to Bar Juanito, in Jerez, which seems to be a local institution serving classic tapas – the oxtail was great. Even better was Bar Rinconcillo, the 'oldest bar in Seville', which is a proper, chalk-your-bill-on-the-bar, stand-up-with-the-old-men sort of place (Anthony said this is essential – the food is different for tourists at tables), where we had the best tapas of the whole trip (pigs' cheeks – delicious) with ice-cold manzanilla (the old men were drinking thin red wine straight out of barrels at the back for less than a euro a glass).

Alison, BlackSmith, April 2008