Mr & Mrs Smith

Pulau Ubin, an island in north-east Singapore, is the antithesis of Sentosa: it’s not manicured to death, has no themed attractions and you explore the charming island on foot, by bicycle or in rickety taxis and vans. This fast-disappearing, rural Singapore with a stuck-in-time feel is only accessible by equally rustic bumboats (from the Changi Village ferry terminal). Explore the wildlife-rich Chek Jawa Wetlands while you're there – boardwalks meander around the mangroves, although they’re only accessible at low tide. One caveat: the heat and humidity will turn walking into a strenuous activity, so start your day trip early.

 

If you fancy a more urbane excursion, begin with an early-morning spin around a wet market – the ones in the Chinatown Complex and Little India’s Tekka Centre are both eye-opening insights into local life – followed by kaya toast and coffee in a kopi tiam (coffee shop). Then spend the rest of the day shopping along Orchard Road or at the Funan Digital Life Mall, interspersed with regular meals, to experience how Singaporeans spend their leisure time.

 

They’re completely irresistible, so it’s worth getting up early and heading to the Singapore Zoological Gardens (www.zoo.com.sg) for the Jungle Breakfast with the orang-utans.

The owner of Il Lido (+65 6866 1977; 27 Bukit Manis Road; www.sentosagolf.com) at Sentosa Golf Club is a fan of Philippe Starck and Flos, so he fills his sea-facing, sunlit dining room with iconic European design. The extensive Italian menu features dishes such as wagyu beef cheek and veal ravioli.

No, you’re not in Ibiza, but you may feel you are at Café del Mar (+65 6235 1296; 40 Siloso Beach Walk; www.cafedelmar.com.sg) on Siloso Beach – a hip, daytime hangout, where the beautiful laze on sunloungers and a DJ plays from noon till dusk on weekends. Tanjong Beach Club (120 Tanjong Beach Walk; www.tanjongbeachclub.com) takes it name from its Sentosa strip of sand, and has a great daytime menu and cocktail list.

It’s difficult to find a one-stop nightspot as all-inclusive as St James Power Station (+65  6270 7676; 3 Sentosa Gateway; www.stjamespowerstation.com) – a red-brick complex of 10 bars offers musical allsorts.

January/February Fireworks, street parades, dragon dances and night markets are all part of Chinese New Year, which is celebrated in fine style here. This time of year also sees one of the most important festivals in the Hindu calendar, Thaipusam, where devotees pierce their skin with hooks and skewers from where they hang kavadis (frames decorated with feathers, fruit and flowers). April Cinema lovers can enjoy more than 300 offerings from across the globe at the Singapore International Film Festival (www.filmfest.org.sg). July They love to eat at any time of year, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the island’s residents devote an entire month to dining at the Singapore Food Festival (www.singaporefoodfestival.com). August 9 The nation celebrates the independence gained in 1965 on Singapore National Day. September The world’s only Formula 1 Grand Prix night race (www.singaporegp.sg) revs its way through the streets late in the month, and the whole city is jam-packed. October Contemporary art from around Asia is on display at ArtSingapore (www.artsingapore.net). November Little India becomes even more colourful during Deepavali, the Festival of Lights.