Worth getting out of bed for...

Viewpoint

Savour the city’s skyline from the Seema Malaka temple. Built by Sri Lankan architectural luminary Geoffrey Bawa, this modern monument is flanked by Buddha busts and seems to float over the pelican-dotted waters of Beira Lake. Alternatively, seek out the Fort Lighthouse for its port panoramas and sea-edge scenes.

Arts and culture

Colombo is home to a stellar art scene. Barefoot (706 Galle Road, Colombo 3; +94 (0)11 258 9305) and the Gallery Café (2 Alfred House Road, Colombo 3; +94 (0)11 258 2162) both host rotating exhibitions of contemporary collections. The sugarcube-styled Saskia Fernando Gallery (61 Dharmapala Mawatha, Colombo 7; +94 (0)11 742 9010; www.saskiafernandogallery.com) showcases works by Sri Lanka’s most prominent artists. Swing by the spectacular neoclassical mansion that houses the National Museum (Sir Marcus Fernando Mawatha, Colombo 7; +94 (0)11 269 4366), where Sri Lanka’s heritage is celebrated with theatrical costumes, rock sculptures and early forms of art.

Something for nothing

The sight of kaleidoscopic kites swooping through the sky above the Galle Face Green every evening is magical – and a definite hit with the kids. This seaside promenade is Colombo’s largest open space, and is at its busiest on the weekend.

Shopping

For gorgeous gowns and jaunty jewels, pop into Trunk (2 Galle Road, Colombo 3; +94 (0)11 243 7372) in the Galle Face Hotel. Heavenly homewares and fabrics can be found at designer den Paradise Road (213 Dharmapala Mawatha, Colombo 7; +94 (0)11 268 6043). For antiques and reproduction furniture, head to Villa Saffron (15 Bogahahena Road, Battaramulla; +94 (0)11 276 1860) – they’ll even help you ship your buys back home. Laksala (60 York Street, Colombo 1; +94 (0)11 232 3513) in the Fort is the place to head for local souvenirs. Since 1892, the family firm of Plate (580 Galle Road, Colombo 3; www.platelimited.com; +94 11 258 1517) has been renowned for vintage photographs, prints, engravings and maps from the 19th and 20th centuries. Peruse in a compelling teak-panelled emporium that doubles as one of the best museums of the Raj period.

Daytripper

A 45-minute drive south-east takes you to the serene wildlife-filled wetland of Talangama, which is home to more than 100 species of birds, butterflies, reptiles and dragonflies. If you’d like a guiding hand, the clued-up naturalists from Jetwing Eco (+94 (0)11 238 1201; www.jetwingeco.com) are practised in leading you through the wetlands, and will throw in a superb curry lunch and refreshments with each tour.

Best beach

Mount Lavinia, Colombo’s southernmost suburb, boasts the city’s best beach. The golden swathe of sand is fringed with rustic restaurants, and the horizon is dotted with hulking container ships. While locals take a dip here, most tourists save their swimming sessions for southern shores.

Walks

An escorted Colombo City Walk (+94 (0)77 301 7091) is a great way to soak up the buzzing bazaar of Pettah, the crumbling colonial architecture of the fort, and the former majesty of the Galle Face Green. These personalised afternoon plods include intelligent insights, knowing nips up side streets and stacks of snack stops along the way.

Children

Viharamahadevi Park’s lush lawns, towering trees and park with swings, slides and creaking mechanical rides make it top with the tots. Just on its fringes is Milk (12 Barnes Place, Colombo 7; +94 (0)11 269 6286), a toy shop where Junior Smiths can channel their inner Monet while seniors sip coffee and scoff home-baked cakes. Kids will also love visiting the elephant in the Gangaramaya Temple (pack some bananas), or letting off steam aboard the swan pedalos on Beira Lake.

Activities

At master architect Geoffrey Bawa’s former city pad, labyrinth of rooms and courtyards have been left as they were when he died in 2003. Join a fascinating one-hour tour to soak up the atmosphere (No. 11, 33rd Lane, off Bagatalle Road, Colombo 3; +94 (0)11 433 7335; www.geoffreybawa.com). A 10-minute drive from the city is the historic Royal Colombo Golf Club (233 Model Farm Road, Colombo 8; +94 (0)11 269 5431; www.rcgcsl.com) for 18 holes and drinks in the 130-year-old colonial clubhouse.

And

Always have your passports at the ready, especially at night. Although the war wrapped up in 2009, memories linger and as such army and police checkpoints remain plentiful around town.