Local knowledge

Taxis

A route taxi in Jamaica is essentially a high-speed minibus, offering an on-demand (stops anywhere) service for a random selection of people, travelling in vaguely the same direction. Ask your hotel to book your journeys with a trusted local cab driver (they will also give you an idea of journey costs). Keep your cabbie’s number and be his best customer throughout your stay.

Tipping culture

10–20 per cent is standard, depending on your appreciation.

Siesta and fiesta

Most places close on Sundays and public holidays. During the week, restaurants and shops shut their doors around 6pm, or 8pm Friday–Saturday. Banks finish business at 2pm Monday–Thursday, staying open until 4pm on Fridays (closed at the weekend). There are 24-hour cash machines in town centres.

Packing tips

Light linens; mosquito spray; heel-free shoes for scaling the Blue Mountains and a stash of CDs for your 4x4: Bob Marley’s Natty Dread, Black Uhuru's Grammy-winning Anthem, Jimmy Cliff’s The Harder They Come and Sean Paul’s Dutty Rock.

Recommended reads

Ian Fleming wrote many of his Bond novels esconced in his beloved Jamaican retreat, Goldeneye, near Port Maria. Dr No, Live and Let Die and The Man with the Golden Gun are all partially set on the island. Reggae lovers may like Catch a Fire: The Life of Bob Marley, written by Timothy White and based on White’s interviews with Marley and those closest to him. Jean Rhys’ Jane Eyre-prequel, Wide Sargasso Sea, is partly set in Jamaica.

Regional specialities

Try traditional Jamaican breakfast: ackee and saltfish, steamed callaloo, plantain and steamed dumplings. Boston Bay claims to be the birthplace of jerk, so visit the beach and choose from throngs of jerk stalls selling chicken, pork and fish. Douse the flames on your tongue with a chilled Red Stripe. Equally delicious is the island’s Asian-influenced fare – curried goat and chicken, served with rice and peas. The tropical fruit has Willy Wonka-esque names – nesberries, june plum and sweetsop – but the delicious flavours are real. Sip some dark rum from the historic Appleton sugar estate.

Currency

Jamaican dollars (J$). Although American dollars are widely used, exchange rates vary and you’ll always get your change in Jamaican currency. It’s always easier to pay in cash rather than relying on plastic.

Time zone

GMT – 5.

Dialling codes

+1 876 (only dial the seven digit number for local calls).

Do go/don't go

Port Antonio is a year-round affair. The rainy season (June and October) is actually a popular time to visit, with travellers revelling in the torrential tropical downpours (the rain’s warm at least) that keep Portland so green and lush. Storms are generally short-lived, and there are plenty of dry and sunny days in between. High season is mid December–mid April, and hurricane season is from the beginning of June until the end of November. It’s wise to avoid going during the American spring break (March–April), though Portland is less affected by this than Montego Bay and Negril.